When Two Cultures Collide

Posted by Darrell Nicholson at 11:17AM - Comments: (3)


Diego Fructuoso/Team Telefonica/Volvo Ocean Race
Diego Fructuoso/Team Telefonica/Volvo Ocean Race

Team Telefonica grinds away during Leg 4 of the Volvo Ocean Race 2011-12, bound for Auckland, New Zealand.

I usually don’t get too excited about the tricked-out space ships circling the globe in the Volvo Ocean Race, but when I heard the race fleet was split in half, with three of the Volvo 70s planning to weave through the Solomon Islands, my interest was piqued. While the images of these thoroughbred machines racing down the long swells of the bottom of the planet are impressive, the idea of threading through an area of poorly charted reefs, jungle islands, and notoriously squally weather in the darkness presented a interesting new twist.

The fleet is nearing the end of the 5,200-nautical-mile Leg 4, from Sanya, China, to Auckland, New Zealand, a leg that lacks almost no historical reference points for the racing tactician. In all, the six boats will complete nine legs in their around-the-world bid, with a stop in Miami scheduled for middle of May. 

The remote and still poorly charted Solomon Islands offered a trickier-than-usual navigational challenge for the three boats that chose the route through the archipelago, but they seemed to skate through without too much problem. When we were winding through the same islands 16 years ago, the British Admiralty charts we relied on were riddled with errors, causing all sorts of gastro-intestinal problems for the navigator that I’ll refrain from detailing here. Weather forecast coverage was spotty at best. Malaria and man-eating crocodiles were lingering worries. The threat of mutiny simmered in the galley.

Darrell Nicholson
Darrell Nicholson

My wife, Theresa, guides ye ol' Atkin ketch Tosca toward Mbili Passage, spring 1996.

The three boats that ducked between the islands of Choiseul and Santa Isabella—Groupama, Team Telefonica, and Team Sanya—skirted right past one of the most fascinating cruising grounds we explored, the Marovo Lagoon, site of many of James Michener’s World War II tales and home to some of the most talented wood carvers in the Pacific. I couldn’t help but notice how tantalizingly close the boats passed to the Mbili Passage, the gap we sailed through to gain entrance to the lagoon. I tried to imagine the look of shock on the faces of the local fishermen in their dugout canoes when they caught site of one of these alien vessels flying southward toward New Zealand. If one of the village chiefs had caught sight, he no doubt would have tried to collect a levy for using the local waters—a practice that perturbed many cruisers in the Solomon Islands, but one that I didn’t find unreasonable, given the circumstances.

Even if you don’t care much for over-the-top sailboats financed by bottomless pockets of their corporate sponsors, the Volvo offers an interesting look at the art of weather routing. The boats have been sailing surprisingly close together for much of the event, and the “Race Data” page of the Volvo Ocean Race website offers all kinds of cool tools to evaluate forecasts and get an intimate look at the information the pros are using to make their routing decisions. Granted, the average cruiser will never make the time these boats do (500 nautical mile daily runs!), so the passagemaking decisions won’t be a good template for cruisers. The site does, however, give the armchair globe-girdler a tangible sense of the many factors at play when making routing decisions—a fun exercise, even if you can’t drop the hook and enjoy some swamp-taro pudding.


Comments (3)


I'd have to check the survey dates on the charts, some of the data is likely to be over 100 years old, or more, going back even to the days of Bougainville. Some data is just not there, but there are some good guides with sketch charts. The major ports and some smaller ones are sufficiently well charted (a byproduct of World War II) and the water is clear enough that daylight navigation is comparable to most any other tropical reef area where uncharted or poorly charted reefs off the beaten path are not uncommon. These are relatively young volcanic islands, so most of the channels between them are deep. Mostly it is the lack of nav aids and good chart data in the smaller villages that make navigating a chore. The islands are close, with deep passages between, so short daylight hops are easily managed-- and there's plenty of clear deep water to wait for sunup if you do an overnighter. Definitely not the place to blindly trust a digital chart (is there any?), though I imagine there are plenty of bread-crumb GPS waypoint routes through the main cruising areas available through cruising sailor networks like the SSCA today. New technology in satellite based survey will likely help fill in these gaps in the future. In my view, there is enough information around to make exploring the islands no less intimidating than poking around the more remote Bahamas for the first time, especially since the channels are so deep, making the fringing reefs and shallows pretty obvious in good light.

Posted by: DARRELL N | March 8, 2012 7:53 AM    Report this comment

How dated are the British Admiralty charts that are available for the Solomons?

Posted by: James L | March 7, 2012 10:27 AM    Report this comment

I wish I were in one of these boats!!!!

Posted by: Jesus L | March 6, 2012 2:04 PM    Report this comment

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