Mailport: 10/01

Techni-IceAs a longtime subscriber to Practical Sailor, I have rarely found much reported information that I would disagree with. Also, my wife and I...

Readers Weigh in on DIY Climber

In the October issue of Practical Sailor, circumnavigator and PS contributor Patrick Childress described a system to simplify going aloft alone. The system, inspired by similar ones that professional riggers routinely use, included some specialized climbing equipment. After reading the article, a few of our readers pointed out that this arrangement made some potentially dangerous assumptions, and they offered suggestions on how to improve it.


Washer/Dryer Combos. Navico and Navik. Adhesive Removers. Manganese Bronze. Cetol on Gelcoat.

Where Credit is Due: February 2013

This winter, we needed to fix a keel bladder valve on our 25-year-old Avon inflatable dinghy. A Web search revealed it was a Honeywell A8 type and that Honeywell Leafield is now Leafield Marine ( A retail source could not be found, but an email to Leafield was answered overnight by Sue Reynolds, letting us know the valve was still available, along with a request for our address since we needed just one.

Mailport 04/01/99

Anchor TestsIn regard to your anchor test in sand, you remarked that the Digger anchor refused to set, even though the inventor said he...

Mailport: 05/09

In light of your recent letters on copper/epoxy antifouling bottom coatings, Id like to share my experience. Near the end of my Searunner trimaran boatbuilding project, I decided to apply a product known at the time as Copperpoxy. I applied the coating to all three hulls to about 20 mils thick, and then sanded this "orange peel" surface down to about 10 mils. I finished up with 220-grit sandpaper. In the end, it was beautiful. It was just like a perfectly smooth, new copper penny, and just a bit thicker than recommended. We started our cruising adventure in the foul waters of Beaufort, S.C. Very soon, I was doing a huge scrape job every week. The bottom was covered with grape-size barnacles. I noticed that the aft half of the main hull, the part with underwater metals, was fouling the worst. (I was changing zincs every week.) Two years later, in Pensacola, Fla., we decided to give up on this product and paint over it with Pettit Trinidad SR bottom paint. When doing the weeks-long prep for this painting, we could see that the skin of our epoxy/ply boat was electrically conductive and corroding all the way through in the entire area of the bonded shaft, strut, prop, gudgeons, and copper mast ground. We put on three coats of Trinidad, waited a few days, and splashed the boat. Within two weeks, the new paint had peeled off in the electrically active area. We re-hauled, stripped the paint in this area, and coated the problem Copperpoxy area with three coats of epoxy. After sanding and repainting, we set off for the Western Caribbean. Over the following six months, we noticed that even the epoxy would not stick to the Copperpoxy.

Mailport: Water Lift Muffler, Drogues, Hunter 30, and More!

After corrosion destroyed the water-lift muffler aboard his 1972 Irwin 37 (above) and he could not find a replacement, subscriber Gene Millard fabricated his own.

Mailport: May 2011

Letters to Practical Sailor, May 2011. This month's letters cover subjects such as: Practial Heads, Anchor Lockers, Handheld Vacs, and more!

PS Advisor: 07/01/05

Is there a correct way of towing an inflatable dinghy? Some say it should be towed a short distance behind the boat, while others...

Mailport: 05/15/04

One More on Solder/Crimp Soldering has a long history in electrical engineering and in a good manyapplications it is well nigh indispensable....

Exploring the Ins and Outs of Bowsprits for Light-air Sails

A salty Kiwi named Ross Norgrove once said that the most important tool for the owner of a wooden yawl adorned with a bowsprit is a sharp ax. To some degree, his witty comment holds true for contemporary sailors contemplating a mini-bowsprit.