I have been following your articles on teak maintenance with great interest. I have an Oyster 56 with teak decks and teak toerail. I live in South Florida, and this is my second Oyster. I damaged my first teak deck as well as the metal fittings around it with too much love. With this deck, I have been very careful and only lightly wash. The deck is OK, but I have a toerail that overhangs the sides. I was reluctant to varnish it as it often gets scratched, but it is beginning to look bad. After reading your April 2008 article, Im thinking that applying one of the teak oils may be a solution. Did any of those you tested seem suitable for touch-ups when scratched or nicked? Was there one that could be easily wiped off gelcoat without staining it?
Over the years, I’ve heard various timeframes for when to replace standing rigging, but I’ve never seen any empirical data to back up those recommendations. It would be very informative to know from a metallurgical/metal failure point of view estimated lifespans of the average wire used for standing rigging.
Atlantic Sail Traders I think a little more information is in order regarding Atlantic Sail Traders. As the proprietor of Latitude Sailing Charters, I...
I am in the middle of a complete refit of a 1978 CSY 44. A while back, I purchased four bronze portholes from New Found Metals (www.newfoundmetals.com). Recently, I had ordered three more custom portholes from NFM. Because of a miscommunication, they arrived at the boat in stainless rather than bronze. I called Terry at NFM, who said she would check with the owner and get back to me.
Each year, the rudder on my 1986 C&C 35-3 has to have water drained from it. It is my belief that water gets in from the shaft/stock entrance to the rudder, but with the rudder in place, access is restricted. From speaking with other boaters, I’ve found it to be a common problem. The initial concern is of water freezing inside and splitting the rudder, but I also have the longer-term implication of possible internal, and unseen, corrosion. For now, I drill a couple of holes in the fall, and epoxy them before launch. Is there a fitting that could be implanted in the rudder, with a screw to be easily removed for drainage?
The hatch cover project you reported on in the March 2016 review of the Outland Hatch Covers offered a right nifty approach to making your own covers. Could we see more details on the cover backside and buttons? Also, how did you keep the holesaw from dancing around without the center bit to pilot off of?
I read your recent Inside PS blog on alternator care, Ten Tips to Prolong the Life of Your Alternator. This article was extremely helpful and much appreciated. I was hoping someone would be kind enough to explain the best method to align the alternator pulley with the other engine pulleys. I have not been able to locate anything written about how this would be achieved. If it makes a difference, I have a Yanmar 4JH5E with a stock alternator. Let me explain further that my question is how to make an alignment adjustment. I understand the idea of using a straight-edge across the face of the pulleys to check alignment, but if I discover mis-alignment, how do I correct it. Perhaps this is dead simple, but in just looking at the owners manual and searching the internet, I haven't come across an explanation of how to do this. My next move is to just grab some wrenches and see if I can figure it out, but thought I might ask first.
With regard to your July 2016 article on storm preparedness and spring lines, what advice is there for storm prep for floating piers? We are in a slip with a 36-foot boat, and there is no way to cross-tie to pilings across the slip. Also, there are no cleats at the head of the slip, only on the finger pier.