Cam Cleat Wisdom

Pay attention to fairlead location, material.

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Sailing is all about pulling and securing strings. For infrequent securing, a horn cleat works fine. Others are constantly tweaked and require something more responsive. Cam cleats have become the go-to tool when we need easy adjustment or instant release. But for the cam cleat to work as intended, an often overlooked component comes into the picture-the fairlead. Before you replace or add new cam cleats, consider the following fairlead options.

No Fairlead

In many cases, an open top cam cleat is best. They’re perfect for securing winch tails, since they can be removed to place more turns on the winch. They’re also good for parking lines when they are not in use.

Standard round Fairlead

Fine for dinghy mainsheets and other lines that will always be facing towards the belayer. The fairlead keeps the rope in good position to be quickly reengaged. They are light but lack any durability if the line is far off-angle. We’ve worn through several and broken a half dozen underfoot. Adequate for swivel-mounted cam cleats and dinghies.

Low friction rings

Low friction rings (see adjacent photo 5) are good for furling lines, barberhaul leads, and-when used with Dyneema-mast base turning blocks. Note that LFRs can be used with Dyneema, but polyester halyards are better served with ball bearing blocks.

Turning Blocks & Multiple Fairleads

Turning a line abruptly using a fairlead generates friction. At most, the fairlead should center the line between the jaws and change the angle by no more than 20 degrees, depending on the load and the type of line. Lines that are not adjusted under load can turn more. Dyneema will tolerate as much as 180 degrees through a low-friction ring, but Dyneema can’t be held by cam cleats, so it will need a polyester cover. If there is room, additional fairleads can turn a line in stages, never exceeding 20 degrees. A turning block is often a better choice.

Integral plastic Fairleads

We’ve chewed through plastic fairleads on winched lines that were deflected less than 10 degrees. Metal or metal-lined fairleads and low-friction rings are better choices. Although they don’t bolt down neatly, low-friction rings have several advantages as fairleads.

They can be lashed in place, eliminating holes. They can be located in space; often the best location, resulting in the lowest friction, a few inches above the deck. The downside is a new tripping hazard.

Angle Blocks and Risers

Risers and blocks ensure the line easily and cleanly locks. They aren’t required if the line can fall away from the block within a foot or so, and depending on where the trimmer will be. They are handy for cleats on the cockpit sole, which are otherwise awkward to cleat.

Lance Cleats

Lance cleats contain only a single cam, placed in the horizontal axis, so uncleating requires moving the tail sideways instead of lifting. They are light with a smooth profile; sometimes these have advantages where a cam cleat may be stepped on or snagging lines is problematic. We’ve found uses for them and liked them, but they are a specialty item.

Spinlock PX Cleats

You can’t help but marvel at the neat engineering that allows the cleat to snap on and off by simply raising or lowering the line, without pulling the line forward as required by cam cleats. On the other hand, a PX cleat isn’t much stronger than a similarly sized cam cleat. There are applications where PX cleats are a little easier to use (spinnakar pole controls on smaller boats), but they are specialized. Reports of durability and have been mixed.

The early versions (pre-2012) reportedly had corrosion-related failures, but even after design changes, they still fail to deliver the rugged reliability and easy repair of a conventional cam cleat. A part of the problem seems to be incorrect use in applications that push the limits of their release-under-load ability. Some failures stem from complexity and small parts. Available in many styles, including the R-series, which matches existing cam cleat mounting holes.

Harken Extreme Angle Fairlead

The stainless-steel rod in this Harken fairlead provides a good wear surface for braking. This adds a few extra grams and some unwanted bulk-trouble for a high-performance dinghy, but just the thing for a cruising boat.

In the name of dependability, we’ve converted all of our cam cleats to either no fairlead or a heavy-duty extreme angle type.

Conclusions

Cam cleat selection is all about selecting the right tool for the job, providing the right accessories, and then using it properly. The sailor must be able to pull on the line at angles that allow both cleating and releasing from any required position. The line must arrive at the cleat at a fair angle, perhaps with the assistance of an integrated fairlead, though the final deflection should be no more than 15 degrees.

An exit fairlead can allow release or even cleating from an angle cleat, although this is not best. A heavy-duty exit fairlead can even help with braking, although this is better provided by a winch or ratchet block. The best brands and models? We like Harken, Selden, and Garhauer, but see the PS May 2010 for full details. We’ve used them all and learned that proper installation and selection are what matters most.

Cam Cleat Chafe Rankings

Cam Cleat Wisdom

Matching Cam Cleats to Fairleads

Cam Cleat Wisdom

Even the best cam cleat will fail the durability and performace test without a fair lead that promotes easy operation and can withstand any anticipated line friction.

  1. The wire-edged Harken Extreme Angle Fairlead is one of our favorites for cruising application. The lead is rugged and can be used to relieve strain or for braking.

2. The top of this polymer fairlead from Harken has nearly worn through completely.

3. Ronstans standard fairlead shares the same vulnerability as the Harken fairlead in photo #2.

4. Spinlock PX cleats are sleek and efficient, but not as durable as some simpler designs.

5. Low friction rings can make versatile and rugged fairleads.

Darrell Nicholson
Practical Sailor has been independently testing and reporting on sailboats and sailing gear for more than 50 years. Supported entirely by subscribers, Practical Sailor accepts no advertising. Its independent tests are carried out by experienced sailors and marine industry professionals dedicated to providing objective evaluation and reporting about boats, gear, and the skills required to cross oceans. Practical Sailor is edited by Darrell Nicholson, a long-time liveaboard sailor and trans-Pacific cruiser who has been director of Belvoir Media Group's marine division since 2005. He holds a U.S. Coast Guard 100-ton Master license, has logged tens of thousands of miles in three oceans, and has skippered everything from pilot boats to day charter cats. His weekly blog Inside Practical Sailor offers an inside look at current research and gear tests at Practical Sailor, while his award-winning column,"Rhumb Lines," tracks boating trends and reflects upon the sailing life. He sails a Sparkman & Stephens-designed Yankee 30 out of St. Petersburg, Florida. You can reach him by email at practicalsailor@belvoir.com.