Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

All of the mechanical terminals we tested are based on the same assembly concept: The rigger opens the cover yarns, and then slides a wedge over the core yarns, near the end of the wire. The rigger closes the cover yarns over the wedge, and then, screws together the two outer parts of the terminal over the wedge, compressing the material, and thus generating friction. Simple, but like any assembly, it can be done wrong. Here are a few things to watch out for when assembling a mechanical terminal.

In our recent article on anchor swivels (see PS September 2015 online), we reiterated our view that swivels are unnecessary in most anchoring situations. For those who insist on using one, we suggested staying away from cheap varieties, and using only load-tested designs that exceed the rating of the anchor chain from every angle of pull. (None of the ones we have found that meet this criteria are cheap.) Shortly after that article, Mantus Anchors, a relatively new maker of anchors and anchoring accessories, introduced its swivel, which it claims is as strong as an ordinary shackle and priced in a range that ordinary cruisers can stomach.

We know the theory behind using anchor swivels: The swivel releases any twists in the chain when an anchored boat swings through 360 degrees or more. Still, we question the logic of using them. Our skepticism is supported by our own experience, previous testing, and input from long-term cruisers, but we wanted to devise a test to investigate chain twisting.

There are a number of ways to attach a snubber to an anchor chain. A gripping hitch, a soft-shackle, or a chain hook are the most common. Of the three, Practical Sailor has a strong preference for a camel hitch or similar gripping knot, but for the many who seek a faster, simpler way to attach a snubber, here is a look at chain hooks.

When it comes to snubber sizes and diameters, catamarans present special challenges, and usually require a bridle, with separate lines leading from the hook to each hull. Heres an example of the bridle-type snubber that PS contributor Jonathan Neeves uses on his seven-ton, 38-foot catamaran that he lives aboard and cruises in Australia.

During our research, nearly every maker of industrial chain offered the same caution: Using a generic chain hook can reduce the link strength by 20 to 25 percent. The generic style of chain hook, familiar to most sailors, resembles an elongated fish hook. As we found in this test, some other hook types are potentially more harmful.

Many of Practical Sailors tests move from the lab (workshop/garage/driveway) to our fleet of test boats, where we can evaluate the top products in real-world conditions over the long haul. These long-term tests can last from two to 10 years, and we try to offer occasional updates on their status, when its warranted.

Replacing the roller-furling control line is an easy do-it-yourself job for the boat owner. Inexpensive, double-braid Dacron is a fine choice for furling lines on most boats shorter than 40 feet. On longer boats, you can opt for a furling-line material of more esoteric double-braids with less stretch. However, any line smaller than 3/8-inch diameter is too difficult to grip.

Sailors gaze longingly at the rope wall at the local chandlery, coveting rope made from exotic fibers that promises ultra-low stretch and light weight, perfect for every halyard, sheet, and running-rigging application. But are they really? Certainly, there must be applications where a little stretch is a good thing, perhaps the best thing.

When it comes to boats, theres never a shortage of stuff to secure, coil, or hang up. Bungee cords are the default go-to in many cases, but they gradually lose strength and degrade over time due to UV damage; also, the hooks rust and can scratch finishes. We recently looked at a product thats advertised as being a bungee cord on steroids: the Davis Instruments MiniShockles.