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Entry-Level Cruising Boats

The Hunter 30 built from 1974 until 1983 is a John Cherubini design, as was the companion Hunter 27. Over the course of its nine-year production run, approximately 1,000 were built. The latest 30 we examined was a 1980 model, hull #934.

The Hunter 30 is handsome from some angles but just a bit too flat in the sheer and high in the cabin top to be considered beautiful. The hull is very full to give a lot of interior room, but otherwise quite typical of the racer-cruisers of the 1970s.

The interior was originally a strong selling point for the boat. Almost every owner commented on the size of the interior - often relative to low price - when talking about their reasons for buying the 30.

Layout is conventional, with a good V-berth forward, then a head with small hanging locker opposite, settee berths on each side with a drop-leaf table in the middle, an L-shaped galley, with the sink underneath the companionway, and a quarter berth, with a tiny chart table at its head. The berths are of decent size, though a tall person will wish they were all a few inches longer.

Many of the boats have alcohol stoves (Cooks about like a solar oven, said one owner) that will be due for upgrading. The icebox on the boat we looked at had minimal insulation and would benefit from several more inches all around.

The deck house is high and wide, and this gives a look of spaciousness below. The white hull liner overhead helps to offset the extensive teak veneer on the bulkheads, ceilings, sole, and furniture.

There are adequate windows and hatches for adequate light inside, and opening portlights (Hunter was one of the first production boats to offer numerous opening ports as standard) to give good ventilation. If the boat has not been upgraded by the time of purchase, the new owner will probably want to add Dorade or solar vents to keep the air moving when the opening ports must be closed.

Finish below is average - typical of the low-cost production boats which depend on pre-fab components, rapidly installed in the hull. In our owner surveys, there were a great many complaints about sloppy detailing in the joinerwork, door hinges, hardware, and loose trim. Storage space is minimal, and water tankage of 35 gallons is marginally adequate for cruising.

From the Hunter 30 review. To read the complete review of this popular sailboat, in addition to ten other entry-level cruisers, purchase and download Entry-Level Cruiser-Racers, Volume Two today!

Entry-level Cruising Boats

The C&C 27 followed quickly on the heels of the successful C&C 35. The design is attributed to 1970, with the first boats coming off the line in 1971. The boat evolved through three subsequent editions-the Mark II, III and IV (the latter are hulls #915-#975, according to an owner)-with the latter finishing in 1982. But the hull was essentially the same and not to be confused with the MORC-influenced 27-footer that followed about 1984, with an outboard rudder. That boat lasted until 1987.

The C&C 27 is a good example of what made the company successful-contemporary good looks with sharp, crisp lines that still appeal today. The sheerline is handsome. Below the waterline, the swept back appendages are dated but thats of little consequence to most owners. In the Mark I version, the partially balanced spade rudder is angled aft, with a good portion of it protruding behind the transom. In one of his reviews for Sailing magazine, designer Robert described the C&C 27s rudder as a scimitar shape that was long in the chord and shallow. In 1974, the rudder was redesigned with a constant chord length and much greater depth and less sweep angle.

The keel, too, was redesigned in 1974 though both are swept aft like an inverted sharks fin. The new keel was given 2-1/2 more depth and the maximum thickness moved forward to delay stalling. Hydrodynamic considerations aside, the worst that can be said of the 27s keel is that it takes extra care in blocking when the boat is hauled and set down on jack stands (or poppets as they are called here in Rhode Island). Without a flat run on the bottom of the keel, the boat wants to rock forward.

The rig is a masthead sloop with a P or mainsail luff length of 28 6 and an E or foot length of 10 6; interestingly, this gives an aspect ratio of .36, nearly identical to the .35 ratio of the Tartan 4100 reviewed last month. In response to the September article on skinny masts with single lower shrouds, the owner of a 1974 model wrote, My 1974 C&C 27 has double lowers with a tree trunk of a mast, which I know will support any headsail in any condition, probably even if I drove the boat full steam into an immovable object. Not so the earliest models.

The owner of a 1977 model wrote to say that the Mark I and II models had shorter rigs and more ballast. The change occurred in 1974, along with several others, some of which weve already noted.

Length overall was first given as 27 4; for later marks it is listed as 27 11. Waterline length started at 22 2, increasing to 22 11. The bow overhang is attractive, but more than is found on most boats nowadays. Remember that waterline length directly affects speed.

Displacement, too, changed over the years, between 5,180 pounds,5,500 pounds and 5,800 pounds. (The owner of hull #54 says that boats before #250 were 1,000 pounds heavier.) Depending on which waterline dimension you use, the displacement/ length ratio (D/L) ranges from 211 to 237. The sail/area displacement ratio (SA/D) is between 17.3 and 19.4. With moderate displacement and a generous sail plan, the C&C 27 is fleet. PHRF ratings for the Mark I average around 200 seconds per mile, dropping to about 190 for the Mark II and 175 for the Mark III.

From the C & C 27 review. To read the complete review of this popular sailboat, in addition to ten other entry-level cruisers, purchase and download Entry-Level Cruiser-Racers, Volume One today!

Most times, cleaning your sailboat is nothing more than a common but necessary chore. But some cleaning jobs require special cleaners and more-than-usual elbow grease and time. Working with strong chemicals requires taking a few common-sense safety precautions. First and foremost, READ and follow the directions on the container.

Always wear gloves when using harsh chemicals. We suggest wearing the heavy-duty rubber gloves designed for use with caustic chemicals and acids. (Testers first tried using latex surgical gloves and then switched to household gloves. The cleaners left pinholes in these, allowing acid to seep through and leaving testers without fingerprints.)

Other precautions should include wearing eye goggles and a face mask. Work outdoors and keep children and pets at a safe distance. Protect whats under the boat: the ground, driveway, trailer, etc.

When using a sprayer or rinsing with a hose, be careful of wind and back-splash. And when cleaning up, remember that there is residual acid on brushes and buckets. Be sure to dispose of any leftover acid solutions in an environmentally conscious manner.

Dont make your own concoction by mixing ingredients, and don't add stuff like bleach or ammonia, as deadly toxic gases may result.

For more on the right cleaner for the specific job on your boat, purchase and download Practical Sailors ebook, Essential Marine Cleaners today!

To read even more about the cleaning and maintenance of all your boating surfaces, buy the entire three-part series for the price of two! Available for purchase and download is Practical Sailor's ebook series, MARINE CLEANERS. This three volume set contains the ebooks GELCOAT MAINTENANCE AND RESTORATION, ESSENTIAL MARINE CLEANERS and SPECIALTY MARINE CLEANERS.

You'll get one complete ebook FREE.

Maintaining a boats wood finish is a love/hate affair for most owners, but fortunately it is something that teak lends itself to easily. You can clean and oil or varnish it, or take the more laid- back approach, and let it weather to its natural, silver-gray color.

Regardless of a boat owners maintenance philosophy, most teak will eventually need a thorough cleaning-be it in preparation for fall layup, spring commissioning, or when readying the wood for oiling or varnishing. For regular washing of teak decks, we recommend using a sponte, a soft-bristled brush or scrubbing pad and a mild detergent-or none at all-scrubbing or sponging gently across the grain of the wood, rather than with it (to avoid removal of the softer wood). Use the softest approach first; the less abrasion on your teak the better.

For less frequent, more intense cleaning, or for areas being prepped for a wood finish, a teak cleaner can be the solution.

For more specific advice, Practical Sailor solicited teak care tips from a few industry veterans, and we found that maintenance methods are like snowflakes: No two are alike.

John Neal-captain of Mahina Tiare, a Hallberg-Rassy 46 sail-training ship that has seen more than 117,000 miles-said that once a year, he washes the decks with a very soft, fluffy brush and a solution of fresh water, dish soap, and a little bleach. He lets it sit for 5 minutes or less, and then rinses the deck. Once or twice a year, he uses Boracal, a clear, odorless anti-fungal that doesn't bleach the wood but keeps mold at bay.

Teak-deck manufacturer Teak Decking Systems cautions against using bleach on decks, as does Star brite Vice President Jeff Tieger. Bleach, harsh laundry detergents, or other harsh household products can wear away teak, Tieger said. For regular maintenance, he suggests washing down the decks with fresh water and a mild boat soap. For bigger jobs, he recommends a teak cleaner or brightener. According to Tieger, even decks should be sealed with an oil or sealer to prolong the life of the teak and to protect the wood from getting the washboard look caused when the soft wood wears away.

For more on cleaning decks of all types, purchase and download Practical Sailors ebook, Essential Marine Cleaners today!

To read even more about the cleaning and maintenance of all your boating surfaces, buy the entire three-part series for the price of two! Available for purchase and download is Practical Sailor's ebook series, MARINE CLEANERS. This three volume set contains the ebooks GELCOAT MAINTENANCE AND RESTORATION, ESSENTIAL MARINE CLEANERS and SPECIALTY MARINE CLEANERS.

You'll get one complete ebook FREE.

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After Typhoon Paka tore through Guam back in 1997, I remember digging through piles of timber, tin-sheet roof, and sailing gear at the storm-ravaged home of Capt. Stan Hall and his gracious wife, Linda, a science teacher. The couple had generously allowed my wife Theresa and I to store our sails and other bulky gear in an outbuilding on their property while we carried out a refit on Tosca. The shed was a complete disaster-roof blown off; stuff piled everywhere. We found some of the lightweight gear, like seat cushions and sails, strung across a barb wire fence far from the Halls property. Other possessions, like a weathered life-ring that we had kept more for its sentimental value than for its usefulness, we never found.

As the end of the contentious 2012 election cycle appeared on the horizon, the PRACTICAL SAILOR bumped into the POLITICIAN, who was suffering from the worst case of maritime metaphor-itis that the PRACTICAL SAILOR had ever seen.

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