PS Advisor: 04/06

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Insulating Fridges
The original insulation on my 1994 Com Pac 35 refrigeration is fiberglass duct board. During the summers, it absorbs moisture and becomes nearly useless. I plan to remove and replace the insulation through access holes I will cut in hidden areas, like under the galley sink. It appears my best option is to fill the insulation cavity with expanding foam, but there is very little information about its use. Ive received advice from several self-described marine refrigeration experts, but the foam manufacturers disagreed on how to use the available products. Any advice?

Daniel Caplan
Chesapeake Bay


On production boats, the insulation on iceboxes, refrigerators, and freezers frequently is poorly done, so youre right to have a go at improving yours. Making access holes to remove whats there shouldnt be difficult because youre just cutting into non-critical space between the box and its container.

The only experience PS has had with expanding foam came when we rebuilt the rudder of a test boat. The rudder is a hollow fiberglass shell containing the rudder stock and some metal reinforcement with everything encapsulated in foam.

It might be helpful for you to take a look at the Jan. 15, 2000 issue to see how the rudder job was done.

For your purposes, the foam pouring we did is whats important. Youll be doing your pours in layers, because the foam creates considerable pressure when it expands.

Working with foam is extremely tricky. First of all, it comes in various consistencies. What you want is the 2-pound version used for insulation and small boat flotation. (We used 8-pound foam for the rudder; the heavier foams become structural.)

Use calibrated glass or metal containers (theyll be ruined) to see how fast the stuff goes off, how hot it gets, and how quickly it expands. Practice, practice, practice.

We obtained expert advice and foam from Composites One in Bristol, R.I. (401/253-4800)

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Vangs and Topping Lifts
On seeing the beautiful Tartan 34 at the Mentor Harbor Yacht Club in mid October, I asked Tim Jackett why he had both a mechanical boom vang and a topping lift. He said it was to reduce the wear of the internal spring of the topping lift. Your article makes no mention of using a topping lift along with a mechanical vang, and while I extremely dislike a topping lift, and don’t currently use one, Im open to expert opinion. Any comments?

Charles Andes
Via e-mail


Designer Tim Jacketts suggestion to use a boats topping lift to relieve the wear on a rigid vangs internal spring is sound advice. In fact, several manufacturers of spring-based vangs-including two whose products we tested in the February issue-recommend a similar practice.

The final instructions for assembling Forespars Yacht Rod read: To prevent damage to your Yacht Rod, use your main halyard to support the outboard end of your boom when at the dock or at anchor.

Hall Spars operating instructions for its Quik Vang say: It is always good practice to attach the main halyard to the end of the boom after furling the sail. This procedure allows the tightening of the mainsheet and removes the risk of damage to the Quik Vang. They also suggest tying a knot in the tackle line to keep the vang from lengthening beyond its maximum position so that the dead end of the wire part of the purchase wont jam in the turning sheave.

Hall Spars and Rigging engineer P.J. Schaffer told us that when the vangs not being used, the tension on the tackle should always be eased.

Darrell Nicholson
Practical Sailor has been independently testing and reporting on sailboats and sailing gear for more than 50 years. Supported entirely by subscribers, Practical Sailor accepts no advertising. Its independent tests are carried out by experienced sailors and marine industry professionals dedicated to providing objective evaluation and reporting about boats, gear, and the skills required to cross oceans. Practical Sailor is edited by Darrell Nicholson, a long-time liveaboard sailor and trans-Pacific cruiser who has been director of Belvoir Media Group's marine division since 2005. He holds a U.S. Coast Guard 100-ton Master license, has logged tens of thousands of miles in three oceans, and has skippered everything from pilot boats to day charter cats. His weekly blog Inside Practical Sailor offers an inside look at current research and gear tests at Practical Sailor, while his award-winning column,"Rhumb Lines," tracks boating trends and reflects upon the sailing life. He sails a Sparkman & Stephens-designed Yankee 30 out of St. Petersburg, Florida. You can reach him by email at practicalsailor@belvoir.com.