For exterior uses in particular, teak is more common for a simple reason: the care of teak, compared to the demands of keeping up varnished mahogany, separates the merely industrious boat owner from the truly masochistic type. However much time is required to keep your oiled teak looking spiffy, remember that your neighbor with varnished exterior brightwork is spending double or triple that time on his wood.
The inside of the boat is another story. While teak and mahogany are still most common, a refreshing variety of other woods can be used. Several major boatbuilders have been experimenting with different varieties below, a trend which we encourage.
Mark the perimeter of the soft areas with a pencil. Then drill 1/4” holes on about 6” centers through the outer skin, being sure to position holes at both the high and low points of the delaminated area.
Perhaps the most important factor in the choice is that the wood fit in appropriately. This requirement does no limit the choice to woods that are already in the boat, but it certainly includes them.
It is a rather subjective call. The color, grain and traditional uses of a particular wood will speak to one craftsman and his fellow in different ways. Traditional woods, for example, vary according to region (white cedar in the Eastern US, western red cedar on the Pacific Coast, for ex-ample). A contrasting wood can lend warmth, lightness and elegance to the interior, but the varieties should be limited in number to prevent the appearance of confusion and clutter.
Less subjective is whether a wood has the appropriate characteristics to do a particular job. Holly splines are used1in teak cabin soles for the contrasting light color and because it does not turn black when exposed to water. Ash turns black when exposed to water, so should be used in relatively dry locations and should be varnished. Cedar is too soft for heavy wear applications, but serves well for ceilings. Hardwoods hold fastenings better than soft, but the softer woods glue better. The weight, durability, hardness, strength and workability of the wood should all betaken into account in matching the wood to its work.
Finally, there are the two factors which most control the choice: cost and availability. Some exotic woods which are highly desirable are too expensive to be worth the cost, or are simply unavailable in the US. In some cases, the local wood is the best choice just because it’s there. If you are doing extensive refurbishing, it may be worth a special order of the wood of your choice, but since transportation comprises a large part of lumber costs, it is still worth checking out the regionally grown species.
A word of caution: when purchasing wood, keep in mind that it is almost certainly kiln dried, which may have lowered its moisture content to below 10 %; the appropriate range for woodworking is generally regarded as something around 15 % .Time for seasoning should be built in to your work schedule to avoid large changes in the size and shape of the wood, particularly when large or long pieces are used in tight spaces.
For those who really want to be tantalized, read Chapter 4 of John Guzzwell’s book, “Modern Wooden Yacht Construction.” The discussion covers 55 woods suitable for boatbuilding, from abura to teak, from all parts of the world. You may never have heard of half of them, but by the time you have finished reading, you will have a good idea of which ones you would consider and whether they might be available.
Interior Woods
Teak A dark and heavy wood of golden brown hue, teak is moderately hard and very resistant to decay. Although fairly easy to work, it splits easily and requires care to pre-vent unwanted fractures, particularly when drilling for fastenings. Because of a high silica content in the wood, tools dull quickly and carbide cutting blades are recommended. Its natural oiliness, which contributes to its rot resistance, also causes it to clog sandpaper quickly and can cause problems in gluing. It should be degreased with a solvent before making glue joints. It is best for cabin soles and high wear applications and can be finished with a teak sealer or oil, rather than varnished, in the interest of reducing maintenance. High demand has made it comparatively expensive, running $5-$7/board foot.
Mahogany Medium to dark reddish color characterizes this wood of medium weight and hardness although color varies from pink to dark brown. Honduras mahogany is preferable to African mahogany because the latter often has a highly figured, unruly grain which is difficult to plane smooth. In general, the mahoganies work easily and glue well. It is usually stained for best appearance, and must be varnished as it will discolor where exposed to water. The price varies with quality but is generally in the range of $2-$2.50/board foot.
Philippine Mahogany Not a true mahogany, the Philip-pine variety comes in light and dark red types. Avoid the light types, as it is softer and less durable than the dark. The darker Philippine mahogany is generally comparable to Honduras and African mahoganies for most uses, and costs less.
Butternut A native American wood of light color and light weight, butternut is soft, works easily, and must be varnished to protect its color and surface. It should be used in relatively protected applications, due to its softness, such as joiner work and ceiling, and is particularly attractive when trimmed with mahogany. A traditional wood in some of the better American yacht yards, butternut is not readily available outside the Northeast. It runs about $1.75-$2.25/board foot.
Ash Light in color, heavy in weight, American ash is native to the eastern US. It has a very hard surface, but works well and splits less readily than oak. Because it turns black if left exposed, it must be varnished. It is suitable for either ceiling or trim, but its weight should be considered where large amounts might be required. Price runs $1.75-$2.50/board foot.
White Cedar Very light in color and weight, white cedar is very soft, dents easily, but is easy to work and glue. It is likely to be knotty, so there is a fair amount of waste, which must be anticipated when ordering stock. It must be varnished. Excellent for ceilings, it is slightly aromatic and less expensive than some other woods at $1.50-$2/boardfoot.
Red Cedar Native to the northwestern US, red cedar is generally comparable to white cedar, except for its darker reddish color, greater aroma, and clearer grain. Price runs$2-$2.50/board foot.
Redwood Native to California, redwood is similar in characteristics-to red cedar. It varies in color from cherry to dark mahogany with a narrow white sapwood. Light in weight and moderately hard, it works easily and glues well, with high natural resistance to decay. It can be very attractive varnished, and is appropriate for cabinet work and paneling. Price is $1.50-$2.50/board foot.
White Pine Very light in color and weight, white pine is moderately soft and works easily. The cheaper grades tend to be knotty. While it serves well for general joiner-work, it is not usually used for a fine yacht finish and is often painted, but may be stained and varnished to almost any color. Because it is an important wood for general, non-marine applications, it is readily available; prices run$1.25-$2/board foot.
Exterior Uses
Teak The overwhelming choice for exterior applications, teak is durable, and perhaps most important, can be recovered from a weathered state with relative ease. Its expense is more than offset by the neglect it can absorb. It should be oiled or varnished to prevent warping and checking which results from complete neglect. It is suitable for any exterior use.
Mahogany Elegant, but time consuming to maintain. It must be varnished to prevent darkening from exposure, and usually looks best if stained to produce a uniform color. Darkened wood can be bleached, but not always completely.
Iroko resembles teak in appearance, but is less durable and is not a good substitute for the real thing.
