In general, knots don’t work well with do-it-yourself bungees. Line diameter shrinks and grows with each cycle, making many common knots unstable. An overhand stopper knot will slowly roll towards the end of the line, unless very well tightened.
KNOTS THAT WORK
• A series of half hitches with the tail seized will hold. (photo 1).
• Double overhand stoppers, drawn up tightly.
• Poacher’s knot, also called a double overhand noose (https://www.animatedknots.com/poachers-knot)
KNOTS THAT DON’T WORK
• Bowline. The line rolls and the knot inverts, coming loose.
• Figure 8. You just can’t snug it tight enough. An overhand is better.
• Sewn eyes. We’re fans for rope, but sewing a rubber core is a challenge. Still, it is one of our more common methods. For more security, use a sailmaker’s eye—a seizing at the throat and tail, with a line of basting stitches connecting the two (photo 2).
FITTINGS AND RINGS
Sailrite #369001 Self-Locking Hook. We’ve had mixed success. They work best if you cut the bungee with a hot knife and create the largest end blob that will squeeze inside the fitting. The latches prevent accidents, but we often cut ours off for easier use. $2.95 for a 10-pack (photo 3).
• Sailrite #29308 Plastic hook pack. These hooks (with latches like #369001) attach with a knot. Pull the knot tight to ensure it will hold under load. $13.95 for a 5-pack.
• Sailrite Hog Rings #100951 (photo 4). These are reliable as long as you use two and don’t skimp on the pressure. You will also need an $18 clamping tool.
END-FITTING CAUTIONS
• Flat bungees (photo 5). Cheap premade shock cords won’t last long. The hook pulled through the Harbor Freight shock cord (top), while the Grainger bungee (bottom) is still going strong.
• Adjustable ends (photo 6). The teeth in adjustable end fittings tear up the protective cover, shortening life.
