Boat Maintenance

Small Wire Connections: Best Methods

Connecting two standard-size wires is pretty straightforward: Grab a ratchet crimper, adjust it to fit the crimp connector, strip the two wires to fit into the butt connector, slide the wires into the connector, and squeeze the crimper. The required materials are readily available: butt connectors for inline splices, ring connectors for terminal blocks, and a dab of anti-corrosive grease for the bolts and rings. Done right, these connections can survive some extremely tough conditions. In a recent test of anti-corrosion greases and connections, we demonstrated how these connections can last up to five years in the worst bilge conditions.

YouTube Sailing: Eight Videos Packed with Practical Knowledge

Editor's note: Practical Sailor entered the YouTube world in earnest a year ago, led by Editor-in-Chief Tim Labute, and the channel now has over...

Spring Inspection Checklist for Boats

Spring is here. Time to step back, put on your inspector hat, and approach the boat as an independent hired inspector would.
Green Grease is Practical Sailor's Top Choice for electrical connector grease. Ensure your electrical connections are protected against corrosion with an effective waterproof grease, rather than a conductive grease.

Conductive Greases vs. Corrosion

Many marine installations call for dielectric grease to seal out moisture and prevent oxidation at electrical connections. During the course of our multi-part reporting on greases, several readers asked if a conductive grease would be better for these connections. We have reviewed several conductive greases (see Marine Wiring: Are the Pricey Options Worth the Cost? Practical Sailor, December 2010), testing their ability to protect wires and terminals for extended periods in a salt spray chamber,…
Greenboats laying flax fabric to construct the MB9 monohull, which is entirely constructed from Natural Fibre Composites (NFCs). Photo courtesy of Greenboats.

Considering Fiber-Reinforced Composites for Sheathing

As we explore material legacies and evolution with a regenerative lens for our Wharram Narai Mk IV build, the focus now shifts to sheathing...

Seacocks for Thin Hulls

A proper below-the-water line sea cock consists of three parts: the outside portion or mushroom, which threads into the flanged valve, the flanged valve, and the backing plate.
The hull, rudder, keel and prop should be clean and dry. This 1982 Mirage 33 was perfectly prepared. (Photo/ Ray Ville)

How To Prepare Your Boat for a Survey

You’ve decided to proceed with a pre-purchase survey for your potential sailboat and are working with the seller to get their lowest price. A...

Anti-Seize Coatings for Spars

If youve ever been humbled by a single impossibly stuck fastener, or plan on adding hardware to your spar, running gear, or deck, this report on anti-seize protectants is right up your alley.
Resins and hardeners ready for testing.

DIY Fairing and Filling

Epoxy deserves its wonder resin status as a highly adhesive, water-resistant laminating resin. It is the secret sauce behind a shelf full of fillers, glues, and fairing compounds.
You can apply KiwiGrip in section-by-section stages, so you don't have to tiptoe around drying surfaces. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Non-Skid Refinishing with KiwiGrip

Like most sailboats from the heyday of factory production in the 70s and 80s, our 1978 Islander Bahama came with a textured non-skid gelcoat...

Beneteau 42CC The Center Cockpit Comeback That Didn’t Catch On… But...

If you’ve ever wondered what happened to center-cockpit cruising sailboats—and why they disappeared from mainstream production—today’s review takes you right into the heart of...

Latest Sailboat Review

Catalina Morgan 440 Used Boat Review

The Catalina Morgan 440 is a massive ocean-capable design from the drafting board of Gerry Douglas, a prolific designer for Catalina Yachts for over...