Upgrading the C&C 33 Part I

In July 1990 we bought a 1975 C & C 33 to function as a test platform for Practical Sailor. We chose it above others for several reasons: The design seemed typical of many modern sailboats, with a fin keel and spade rudder and moderate displacement; C & C had a good reputation; and the price was right.

During the next several years we began a protracted period of intensive upgrading. While the upgrading process is a long haul, and we have much left to do, now seems like a good time to stop and assess what we’ve done, and what we would have done differently, knowing what we know now

The Engine

Hot Knots, as she was called at the time of purchase, was sailed from Greenport, New York to Newport on a blustery day. The Atomic 4 engine quit at the dock, but the winds afforded a speedy reach without further mishap. On reflection, it was a miracle we made it.

At home in Newport Harbor, we had amechanic look at the engine. His judgment was that the Atomic 4 didn’t have that many hours on it, and probably didn’t need replacing. He got it running by pulling the spark plugs and banging on the stuck valves. Over the next few months, however, this was a repeated scenario. We never knew if the engine would start or not. It also overheated. By the end of the summer we’d spent about $1,000 for emergency calls.

The next year we retained a new mechanic who advised that the engine be pulled and overhauled. Except forreplacing the oil pump and thermostat, the major workwas cleaning deposits from the cooling system, which was severely restricted. On relaunching, it continued to overheat, though it started easily. The mechanic eventually figured that some additional deposits had come loose and were restricting water flow. Once these were removed, the engine performed flawlessly. Now we have $3,500 invested in the engine, nearly all of it labor.

In the PS Advisor section of the March 15,1992 issue, we responded to another Atomic 4 reader with the argument that nursing an old gasoline engine may be a false economy. For an additional $3,000, we could have repowered with a new Yanmar or Universal diesel. That is about the amount we could have expected to get back on resale of the boat, so it wouldn’t have been wasted money. We wouldn’t have to replace the non-ignition-proof electrical panel, and we’d have more confidence in our powerplant.

The Rig

The C & C 33 came equipped with Navtec rod rigging, and this looks pretty good, even at 17 years of age, though it should probably bereplaced, for safety’s sake. When we installed a Schaefer 2000 headsail furling gear, the forestay was replaced with wire. The Schaefer gear has performed very well and we have no complaints. BOAT1U.S. and JSI discount the 2000 to about $1,500 for 9132-inch wire, including the optional control line blocks. You’ll have to buy a rivet gun for about $10, cut one of the aluminum extrusions with a hacksaw, and install a Sta-Lok or Norseman terminal fitting. This job is well within the capability of the average handyman. Just remember the old carpenter’s adage: Measure twice, cut once.

Some of the sheaves at the masthead had worn from repeated loadings of the wire-rope halyards. A local rigger replaced them for about $150.

While the running rigging still is serviceable, it has degraded and should be replaced. Based on our August 15, 1991 test, New England Ropes would be our first choice.

To prevent water from entering the cabin where the keel-stepped mast passes through the cabin top, we used the Sailing Specialties Universal Mast Boot ($26.95 discount). An adhesive is supplied, and in addition you’re supposed to secure the top and bottom with large hose clamps; we used tape instead. The wooden wedges that center the mast prevented a good fit. A friend of ours, with the same problem, once sawed off his wedges, but then found them hard to remove. The Universal Mast Boot does look better than tape, and as long as it keeps out water we suppose it’s a satisfactory product. Still, we have yet to find the perfect mast boot; they never seem to look as good as the pictures.

The Steering System

In the May 15,1991 issue, we reported on a failed Pearson spade rudder. What had happened was water migrated down the rudderstock and attacked the welds joining the stock to the webs around which the fiberglass rudder was constructed. Though the webbing was deemed inadequate and the design poor, we have since become aware of many other spade rudders failing for the same reason. Indeed, last year on our C & C we noticed rusty water weeping from the rudder collar around the stock. Our surveyor suggested drilling a series of holes into the bottom of the rudder until we hit the bottom web. Sure enough, rusty water drained out. We later patched the holes with epoxy and attempted to caulk the collar. This scenario makes a good case for fiberglass rudders and stocks, which some companies, including Tillotson-Pearson, are now manufacturing. We also are reminded of the trusty bronze rudder hardware on older boats. It’s helpful to remember that stainless steel doesn’t belong underwater.

At the end of our first season, we lost steering on the way to our haul-out. The emergency tiller brought us in. On inspection, the wire that connects the pedestal sprocket chain to the quadrant had broken, because a rudder stop had sheered. Edson supplied a replacement kit for about $60, which is easy enough to install, assuming you can work upside down on your back without seeing your fingers! A trouble light and/or some sort of lighted headgear helps. Be sure to take up tension after it’s been used a few times, as wire does stretch.

The 36-inch Edson steering wheel is aluminum, with some sort of beige coating that had half peeled away. When we called Edison for suggestions they told us they don’t make that type of wheel any longer and there was nothing they could do except sell us a new stainless Destroyer wheel for $241. The alternative is to sand down the old one and paint it with polyurethane paint. The problem is the pitting in the aluminum, which would be a devil to fill and fair. In our opinion, the coated aluminum wheel was a mistake.

The paint also has peeled off parts of the pedestal, which will require sanding and painting, too. Whenever we look at it, dismayed at the work ahead, we remember a Hinckley spokesman telling us they began fabricating their own pedestals some years ago, from fiberglass, for this very reason.

Hardware

Like any older boat, the hardware begins to show signs of wear. Most conspicuous on the C & C was the black anodized aluminum pieces. The anodizing was beginning to wear off the toe rail, but we saw no need to replace it. The stem head fitting, however, cracked one day, presumably from stress induced by the mooring I pennant. C & C wants $550 to cast a new one.

This reminds us once again why we don’t like cast aluminum-it fails without warning. We’re looking into a custom stainless steel fabrication. Hardware manufacturer Garhauer Marine says they can do it for about 40 percent less. We’ll let you know what we decide and how it looks.

The Barient winches still work fine, though some of the chrome plating has worn away. A circlip that holds the drum to the spindle was missing on one, which was easily obtained by calling International Marine in Guilford, Connecticut.

Recently we learned that IM will no longer offer standard Barient winches. It’s a complicated story. In a nutshell, when IM acquired Lewmar in 1990, the Office of Fair Trade in Great Britain said IM had a monopoly in the market as they already owned Barient. As a result, IM sold the Barient manufacturing facility in Australia to the manager and retained world- wide distribution rights (except for England). As luck would have it, the plant fell into receivership. Without a manufacturing facility, IM reluctantly made the decision to drop standard Barient winches. Custom Barient winches are still available via the company’s facility in England.

We were told by an IM spokesperson that Lewmar owns about 65 per- cent of the winch market worldwide, Barient about 10 percent, and the remaining 10 percent divided between other manufacturers such as Maxwell, Andersen and Harken.

Like many boat owners, we’d love to upgrade our boat with self-tailing winches. But even a pair of primaries would set us back about $1,400. Though you can still buy a new Barient, and parts will continue to be available for up to five years, it wouldn’t make sense to choose them for upgrades. Based on our February 1, 1992 evaluation, and November 15, 1992 update of the redesigned Lewmar line, it would be a tough decision. The Harken B40.2ST in chrome discounts for about $715. The Lewmar 40 C ST discounts for about $689. We ranked the Harken tops in efficiency and the Lewmar tops in ease of maintenance. We consider the choice a toss-up.

The Schaefer genoa lead blocks still work fine after 17 years, as do the cam cleats. New ball bearing lead blocks, adjustable from the cockpit, would be a handy upgrade. We’ll be testing soon a new ball bearing car from Garhauer that is supposed to fit over many existing tracks.

Replacing the cam cleats with Ronstan C-Cleats or Harken Cam-Matics, our picks in an August 1,1992 report, would be an inexpensive way to improve line handling.

All seacocks in the boat were re- placed two seasons ago. As reported in the August 15, 1992 issue, we wouldn’t use the original type of RC Marine (Forespar) polymer seacocks, as the ball too often tends to get sticky, resulting in broken handles. We would consider F’orespar9s new design, but only after testing. Of the bronze types we installed, both the Groco Buna-N- Rubber and Jabsco ball valve with a Teflon seat appear to be sound choices. We wouldn’t buy Wilcox-Crittenden barrel-type valves, the standard for decades; they’re priced much too high and tend to leak.

Interior

The C & C has a partial fiberglass pan, forming the sole and berths. Teak- faced plywood forms the backrests, bulkheads and doors. Time and a few deck leaks had caused them to weather and turn silver. We sanded every- thing down-big, big job!-and applied two coats of Interlux #60 Rubbed Effect Varnish ($12/qt.). This looks Left: The Attwood bilge pump switch failed in less than half a season. Note the aluminum plate for the table leg. The old leg was made of stainless steel and corroded- dumb design! Great, but we have noticed that a whitish, mildew-like fuzz has formed on some areas. It wipes off easily, but now we’re wondering if a higher gloss varnish might have given the spores less of a foothold.

The light fixtures were corroded and dated looking. We replaced two fluorescents overheads with 12″ Triangle fluorescents ($34.95 each) in the main cabin. Like the old ones, the mounting bases are painted steel, and we suspect they too will eventually corrode, but we couldn’t find any- thing that would fit made of brass, stainless steel or plastic.

For the berth lights, we bought six Triangle brass lights ($22.95). They look great and work fine; our only complaint is that the mounting base doesn’t have a groove for lead wires. It’s assumed the leads will come out of the bulkhead directly into the in- side of the base. Cost of replacement bulbs is anastonishing$2.95. We hope they last a long time.

We also bought from BOAT1U.S. a Solid Brass Dome Light ($13.95), which is fine, and a Night Vision Two-Way Dome Light ($32.95), which looks chintzy and reflects the shadow of its innards on the white plastic cover. We wouldn’t buy it again.

Throughout the cabin we used Interlux Brightside Polyurethane, a one- part paint that sells for about $16 per quart at discount. It flowed out very well, is easy to clean and appears to be quite durable for non-traffic surfaces. We plan to compare it to Pettit Easy-Poxy, Z-Spar Miracote and Monopoxy enamels. These one-part paints are considerably tougher and more abrasion-resistant than conventional enamels, are easy to use, and give a professional, sprayed-on look with reason- able attention to application.