Pot Skirt: DIY Cooking in the Wind
The writers and editors at Practical Sailor are perpetual tinkerers-always looking for creative, do-it-yourself solutions to even the smallest onboard problems. We figure our readers likely suffer the same challenges on their boats, so were obliged to share such projects.
Epoxy Fairing Compounds, Part One
Breathing life into an older fiberglass boat always entails more work than was expected, but for a person with the time, skill, and do-it-yourself inclination, it is often worth the extra effort. The DIY approach makes even more sense when the boats structural quality and big-ticket components meet the grade, and the skipper and crew are ready to tackle the cosmetic makeover. These fairing compounds are perfect for structural and cosmetic fiberglass repairs.
Testers Check Epoxy Sandability, Adhesion, and More
Testers evaluated sandability, resistance to sag, cure time, and adhesion using sample fiberglass panels with 3-by-3-inch test swatches. The fairing compounds were applied and cured in temperatures ranging from the low 60s to the mid-80s. Each test was repeated three times, and the results were averaged. The shaping test involved closely timed periods of even sanding using a block sander and new sheets of 80-grit sandpaper. Testers observed each materials tendency to clog the sandpaper, and measured the volume of accumulated dust after four minutes of sanding.
Careful Application Saves Your Sanding Arm
Epoxy fillers can be used to fix surface imperfections or for reshaping appendages like keels and rudders to make them more efficient. The smaller the surface imperfection, the less viscous the fairing compound should be. When filling deeper holes or voids, check the manufacturers recommended thickness per application. It may take two or more coats to achieve the necessary thickness. Applying filler too thickly can cause it to sag or will result in an incomplete cure.
Fairing the Keel(s)
One of the more popular uses for fairing compounds is for shaping underwater appendages like keels and rudders so they are more efficient. Adjusting the NACA (National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics) profile, or airfoil shape, of a fin keel or rudder can create more lift to enhance windward performance. Altering the trailing edge can yield similar improvements.
Troubleshooting Marine Battery Issues
Ive had a bunch of friends troubleshooting battery issues lately. It would be really nice to have a chart that shows the battery voltage at rest and charging voltages for bulk/acceptance/float for lead/acid (flooded cells), gel cells, and AGMs.
Where Credit is Due: Ideal Windlass and Marinco
Our 20-year-old Ideal windlass seemed a bit wimpy last fall, so we pulled it and took it back to the Ideal (www.idealwindlass.com) factory in Rhode Island for a rebuild. What a place! It looks like a set for a Charles Dickens movie. However, the work is great, and the windlass now seems to work as good as when it was new. The work was on time, and the cost was about a 10th of the price of a new one.
Riprap & Product Updates: Safety Alert, Jeppesen Sold to Digital Marine, and More!
If you have a handheld NAMMO LIAB AB orange smoke distress signal onboard or in any of your ditch kits, remove it immediately. The U.S. Coast Guard (USCG) recently announced that it has withdrawn its approval for the smoke signal, and it is now considered a Do Not Use product by the Coast Guard. According to a USCG safety alert, the manufacturer changed the signals chemical makeup in October 2013, without Coast Guard approval, and the current signal might spontaneously combust when dropped.
An Eye for Seeing Storms
The news editor was old-school, skeptical of almost everything, so I was surprised when she dropped an envelope on my desk postmarked Fort Collins, Colo. Hurricane season forecast, she said. Make some sense out of it. Hes either lucky as hell, or knows something that the rest of us don't.
Through-bolting Fiberglass: An Inquiry into Failure Modes
How much load does a keel bolt or a winch through-bolt put on a hull or a deck? How thick should the laminate be at these bolt holes? How big of a backing plate is needed?















































