Systems & Propulsion

Practical Sailor’s original goal with this evaluation was to run a long-term test of fuel additives. Instead of adding heat or oxygen or excessive corrosive materials, we would substitute time. After six months of testing additives in E-10 gasoline, we found no measurable corrosion, so we elected to add a small amount of seawater and compare fuel samples after one month. The results were surprising to even our testers. The additives we tested were: Hammonds’ Biobor Ethanol Buster, CRC’s Phase Guard 4, Mercury Marine’s Quickstor, PRI-G, Sea Foam Engine Treatment, Sta-bil Ethanol, Star Tron Ethanol, and ValvTect Ethanol.

If you really must know how we compared the fuel additives, here are the particulars.

Additives can’t solve real gasoline-quality problems. At best, consider additives to be only a final tweaking opportunity, something to supplement the following fuel management practices.

Additives can’t solve real gasoline-quality problems. At best, consider additives to be only a final tweaking opportunity, something to supplement the following fuel management practices.

We’ve seen a slew of new shorepower cords, plugs, and accessories coming onto the market in recent years, and with good reason. The majority of AC-related onboard electrical fires occur at the vessel’s shorepower inlet. The twist-lock connector used in shorepower cords and at the boat outlet has been around since the 1930s, and the design has seen little updating to make it better suited for use in the marine environment. The electrical contacts are small, exposed to the elements, and often required to support the plug and cord, all factors that beget corrosion and loose connectors, which can lead to electrical arcing, overheating, and fire.

We’ve seen a slew of new shorepower cords, plugs, and accessories coming onto the market in recent years, and with good reason. The majority of AC-related onboard electrical fires occur at the vessel’s shorepower inlet. The twist-lock connector used in shorepower cords and at the boat outlet has been around since the 1930s, and the design has seen little updating to make it better suited for use in the marine environment. The electrical contacts are small, exposed to the elements, and often required to support the plug and cord, all factors that beget corrosion and loose connectors, which can lead to electrical arcing, overheating, and fire.

In the Practical Sailor August 2010 issue’s Chandlery, we reported on the installation of a SpeedsealLife kit aboard one of our test boats, a Union 36 sloop powered by a 43-horsepower Beta Marine inboard. An improvement on the original Speedseal (PS, July 15, 2005), the SpeedsealLife is designed to extend the life of a water pump impeller, even in a run-dry situation.

All waste plumbing hoses should be kept as short and straight as possible with no dips where waste could collect. The diverter valve should be located for easy access to the selector handle and free of other stored “stuff” that could bump the handle. The handle positions should be clearly marked for no confusion as to tank or overboard. Before mounting, make sure there is enough room for all three hose fittings and hose bends. Use 120- or 90-degree hose fittings where necessary to prevent tight bends in discharge hoses, and make sure to use the correct reinforced hose designed for sanitation systems.

Continuing with our most recent evaluations of marine sanitation systems, Practical Sailor tested eight marine-grade diverter valves (Y-valves), the valves that control the flow of liquid from one source to two different outlets or from two sources to one outlet. The test field comprised seven manual diverter valves and one electric valve from seven manufacturers. Testers looked at construction, performance, ease of use and install, price, and warranty. The manual Y-valves tested included products from Bosworth Co., Jabsco, Forespar, Groco, Johnson, Whale, and Trudesign (distributed in the U.S. by Raritan). Testers also looked at an electric Y-valve from Trudesign.

Sanitation hoses are specifically designed to contain odorous gases. They are made of very different materials than the many similar-looking hoses used for fuel, coolant, and potable water—and they are not interchangeable. In a home, sewage is contained by rigid metal and PVC pipes, materials that are not practical on a boat. So what are the best hoses to use in an onboard waste system? Practical Sailor tested hoses made of butyl rubber, white vinyl, and polyurethane from Raritan, SeaLand, Shields Marine, and Trident to find. This report covers the test results at the one-year mark.