Shopping for a sailboat? Whether you are buying your first boat or just making a change, you will quickly come up against the classic new-versus-used dilemma. Even if cost is no object, buying new is not always the right route to go. In the real world, cost is always a concern.

Many quality builders have waiting lists. In the case of a custom-designed and built boat, allow years, not months, from concept to completion. Stock production boats are available faster and at lower prices. The average cruising sailboat has grown over the years, and now hovers around the 40-foot size range.

New Versus Used

If you haven’t looked at new boats for a while, you may suffer sticker shock when you visit a dealer. New production boats in the 37 to 40 foot range now cost from $350,000 to over $800,000 USD.

On a new boat, I recommend ordering all the options you want, since adding them later is always more expensive unless you are a DIY expert. On a used boat, I recommend not spending more than two-thirds of your budget on the boat itself. The older the boat, the more you should leave aside for repairs and upgrades. Later, I will cover specific budgets.

Quality

The older the boat, the more I would look for a builder known for quality construction. For cruising boats, Hallberg-Rassy and other Scandinavian makes rank right at the top. They also tend to be pricey—new or used. Boats by top U.S. East Coast builders like Hinckley, Morris, and Lyman-Morse are also of fine quality, but most are on the larger side. As a general rule, the older the boat you are looking at, the more you should concern yourself with the quality of build.

Parts Availability

Boats are not like cars. Although a builder still in business is a plus, it is seldom a major issue.

All the major parts, apart from the hull, deck, and keel, are generic. Engines, masts, and sails are available even when the boat is long out of production. Winches, rigging, and electronics are off-the-shelf parts.

Cruising Yacht Builders

I am only including production or semi-custom boats built in sufficient numbers that you have a good chance of finding them on the market. These are roughly in the order of numbers available.

Beneteau

Founded in 1884, Beneteau is the world’s largest and most prolific yacht builder. It is said that more Beneteaus have crossed the Atlantic on their own bottoms than any other make. I can’t verify that, but it is likely true, since they are a staple of the Caribbean charter fleets. They have built so many models over the years that it is impossible to single out the best. They are often ahead of the design fashion curve and not afraid to experiment.

When looking at used Beneteaus, you will likely encounter ex-charter yachts. These may be bargains but will be well used and may need new rigging and an engine overhaul. Beware of hurricane-damaged boats. Quality and equipment are generally better on the First series rather than the Oceanis series. Jeanneau and Dufour are other builders now owned by Beneteau, and similar in style and quality.

Catalina Yachts

Catalina Yachts have been around since the early days of mass-produced boats, and outlasted almost all their competitors. The earliest boats were not ruggedly built, but over the years, quality and equipment steadily improved. Originally a bargain-priced boat, they later moved into a higher bracket before ceasing production. Catalina was known for long production runs and relatively few model changes, which makes it easier to choose a model. Parts are readily available, and because so many were built, you have a wide choice on the used market. At the time of writing, some dealers still have new Catalinas in stock.

Catalinas are almost uniformly masthead sloops with inline or slightly swept spreaders. Some have in-mast furling.

Hunter Yachts

Hunter Yachts, later Hunter Marlow, were around almost as long as Catalina. Unlike Catalina, Hunter made frequent and sometimes radical model changes. Over the years, they made conventional sloops, then tried unstayed masts, before settling on the Bergstrom & Ridder rig with very swept-back spreaders and no backstay. Construction quality generally improved over the years. The focus was on luxurious interiors, and most Hunters are not likely to win races. As with Catalina, there is a plentiful supply on the used markets.

Hanse Yachts

Hanse Yachts in Germany is the second-largest sailboat builder in the world. They started small in the late 90s with bargain-priced boats based on molds from the defunct Aphrodite brand. The Hanse 371 was their first new design, and it set them on the way to great success. They now own the Dehler and Moody brands. In the early 2000s, their boats were typically stronger and faster than comparable Beneteaus, but now I would say they are quite similar.

Tartan Yachts

Tartan Yachts has built many fine boats, close in quality to the semi-custom builders. Currently, they are building fewer, larger, and more expensive boats. If you want an American-designed and built production cruising boat, they are a top choice. There is always a good supply of used Tartans on the market. Don’t expect a bargain price on a good one.

C&C

Another prolific builder was C&C. Cuthbert & Cassian was started in 1966 and at one time sold almost as many boats as Catalina and Hunter. Originally Canadian, the brand was sold to U.S. interests. In 1997, a new line was produced by the owners of Tartan yachts, with epoxy hulls and carbon masts. Almost all C&C boats can be classified as racer/cruisers, except for the cruising Landfall series. They are all sloops or cutters, and I have never seen one with in-mast furling. Be very cautious with older C&C boats. Although well designed and built, most have a balsa-cored hull and decks, which can be problematic if there is any water penetration. All C&C production ceased by 2018.

Pacific Seacraft

Pacific Seacraft is in a category of its own. Beginning in 1975, the line ranged in size from the tiny Flicka 20 to the elegant Bob Perry-designed Southsea 61. The most popular cruising models are the 34 and the 37, both W.I.B. Crealock designs. All of their boats were designed and built with offshore cruising in mind. I can’t find listings for any used PS boats newer than 2009, so I assume production stopped then. They were expensive new and retain their value exceptionally well.

Ericson Yachts

Ericson Yachts built many different models over the years from 1968 until 1999, most designed by Bruce King. In 1990, they were acquired by Pacific Seacraft, and the Ericson 38 built by PS is one of the most sought-after models. All models from 31 feet up could be considered offshore capable with the right equipment.

Island Packet

Island Packet is one of the smaller builders with a good reputation. These are true cruising boats with a full keel and protected rudder. Rigs can be sloop, cutter, or Solent style. Some have self-tacking jibs. Island Packets have outstanding interior layout and generous tankage and storage space. A quick look at Yachtworld shows used prices from $30K for an older 29 to $750K for a newish 43. They hold their value relatively well, and most appear to have been well cared for.

Westsail

Westsail built a lot of boats that are still around today. Over 800 Westsail 32s were built between 1971 and 1979. They were built tough, with beefy hulls and heavy rigs. They are considered slow but nearly indestructible. Quite a few were sold as bare hull/deck kits, so finishing varies widely. I found one listed in Florida for $25,000, which looks to be in good shape with a fairly new engine. That could be a bargain.

Other Builders

Countless other builders have occupied the cruising market. Some names worth mentioning are Amel, Camper & Nicholsons, Swan, Bowman, Wauquiez, Oyster, Allied, North Shore, Pearson, and Cavalier. All these were built in smaller quantities, and so the choices are limited. However, don’t eliminate them from your preliminary search.

Features

Boats from about 1980 on likely have self-tailing winches, roller furling headsails, and wheel steering as standard. These are usually desirable features in a cruising boat. I would also say that a sturdy bow roller and an electric anchor windlass are necessities for safe anchoring. A self-draining anchor locker with enough room for an all-chain rode is highly desirable. Fold-down or fixed stern platforms are nice to have, but only became common after 2008.

Beware Teak Decks

Teak decks are lovely to look at and feel great underfoot. However, on a boat built before 1998 or so, they are a likely source of headaches. Imagine you have a nice one-piece fiberglass deck. Then you drill hundreds of holes to screw down a teak deck. Teak is heavy, and to countersink and plug the screws, it must be at least half an inch (12mm) thick. Over time, the teak wears thin, plugs pop, screws leak, and the deck core rots. Repairs are expensive, and often the best cure is to remove the teak completely, repair the deck, and paint it. Usually, the smartest move is not to buy it.

From about 1998, most builders glued and vacuum-bagged teak decking, so there are no holes through the fiberglass. My last sailboat, a Hanse 371, had this type of decking in the cockpit, and it was still in great shape after 25 years.

Keel Attachment

The keel is a major component of any monohull sailboat. The highest performing keel is a narrow, deep lead fin with a heavy bulb on the bottom. This is also the type that puts the most strain on the attachment points. When the boat heels, the bending force on the bottom of the hull and the keel bolts is very high. Properly engineered with a good factor of safety, this is not a problem. But over the years, the fiberglass bottom fatigues, the keel bolts stretch and loosen a bit, water gets into the joint, and corrosion starts.

This area is difficult to inspect without removing the keel. From experience, I can say that it is an expensive proposition. The mast will have to be unstepped to prevent the boat from toppling over when the keel comes off.

Replacing keel bolts is also costly. Telltale signs of failing keel attachments include rust bleeding around the bolts in the bilge area and cracks in the fiberglass nearby. Some surveyors can perform an ultrasonic inspection of the bolts.

Internal ballast, laminated inside a molded fiberglass keel, is largely immune to this issue, but it depends on a strong outer shell and proper internal reinforcement. The keel is possibly the most important area for a surveyor to inspect.

Rudder Construction

Most modern sailboats have a foam-filled fiberglass rudder on a stainless steel post. You may also encounter carbon-fiber rudders and posts, usually on performance boats. The most common failure is water ingress into the foam, often caused by collision with debris. Several companies make replacement rudders.

Design

All the top builders employ competent designers, but the design of boats, as with cars and clothing, follows trends and fashion. The current fashion is plumb ends, wide beam, flattish bottom, iron fin keel, one or two spade rudders, and twin steering wheels. Add to that in-mast furling on a near masthead sloop rig, along with large hull windows, and you describe most new Beneteau, Bavaria, Jeanneau, and Hanse models.

Cruising Yacht Designers

There are many fine yacht designers. Only a few specialize in cruising boats in the less than 60-foot size range. Production builders sometimes do not credit an individual designer.

Robert H. Perry

Robert H. Perry is perhaps the most prolific living designer of true cruising boats. I don’t believe he has ever designed a bad boat. Perry’s fame began with the Valiant 40, and it, along with other Valiant models, remains a cruising benchmark. Nordic Yachts built some lovely Perry Designs, as did the Canadian builder Saga Yachts. Because Perry has worked with a large number of builders, the quality of construction varies somewhat. Many Perry designs were built in several Taiwan yards. Early Taiwan-built boats utilized wooden spars and plywood cored decks, which can be problematic when the boats grow old. Later Taiwan boats from the 80s and 90s, particularly those built by Ta Shing, are of better quality.

Chuck Paine

Chuck Paine is another designer who, in my opinion, has never designed a bad boat. In general, he has worked with a narrower range of builders than Perry, and most have been in the semi-custom class. His smaller designs lead toward traditional styling, while some of the large ones are very modern in both style and performance. The Victoria and Bowman models built in the U.K. are great examples of his work. In the U.S., Morris, Able Marine, and Lyman-Morse have all built Paine designs. The Morris Justine 36 is highly sought after, as are many other Paine designs.

Ted Brewer

The late Ted Brewer designed many excellent cruising boats. Those built by Morgan yachts are perhaps the most available on the used market. Other makes include Cabot and Whitby. I am not aware of any Brewer designs currently in production. Brewer designs I would consider both well-made and available are the Whitby 42 and the Morgan 382 and 383.

Project Boats

There are a variety of motivations for owning a sailboat of any kind. Obviously, it can be a conduit for doing things you love. But what are those things? I have met quite a few people who prefer the project to the goal. They get more joy from buying a cheap older boat and working on it for years, sometimes decades, without actually sailing it. Others, and I am one, want to get out there and sail.

I have built two boats from bare hull and deck, one fiberglass and the other laminated wood. Both were finished, launched, and sailing in a matter of months, not years.

While I worked on my 26-foot folkboat in an old barn, there were three other boats under construction, all far from complete. During the seven months I worked on mine (while holding down a full-time job), little progress was visible on the others. Empty beer bottles and full ashtrays told the story.

Lest you think I am condemning those other boat owners, understand they were doing what they loved doing. Completing the project was not the real goal. Perhaps sailing in the ocean of imagination was more satisfying than being out there.

I was young, strong, and poor then. Building a boat or fixing up a project boat that required time and not much money was appealing. Times have changed. In many places, finding a cheap place to work on your boat is no longer possible. The cost of materials, engines, and rigging has soared. Used boat prices, as a percentage of a new equivalent, are at historic lows.

Where to Find a Boat

Many yacht brokers will not accept a listing unless the boat is in decent shape. They want to stay in business and establish a good reputation. One broker told me they don’t accept listings under $100,000. Good deals can often be found online at Craigslist or increasingly, Facebook Marketplace. Prices are lowest in Florida and highest on the West Coast. If you plan to cruise offshore, you might find a boat available in another country or even another continent. U.K.-built boats are less expensive in the U.K., French boats in France, and so forth.

Budget—Less than $30K

A quick search on Yachtworld showed good-looking Catalinas, Sabres, Cape Dorys, and Hunters in this range, sized up to 36 feet. I was frankly amazed at the quality and range of boats available under 30 thousand. Don’t worry too much about dull gelcoat and weathered teak. Watertight integrity, serviceable engine, rigging, and sails should be your priorities. Get a survey.

Budget—$30 to $70K

I found a wide range of quality boats in this price range. Sabre, Tayana, Cape Dory, a Bavaria 37, and even a Morgan Out Island 51. For this money, a 36 to 40-foot boat in usable condition should be easy to find. This is still far below the cost of a new 30-footer.

Budget—$70 to $100K

In this range, I found high-quality boats like Pacific Seacraft, Hinckley, Alden, and even Swans, as well as Catalinas and Hunters, into the mid-40-foot range. This is the sweet spot to find an excellent boat, either older but top-end or mid-range and newer or larger.

Budget—$100 to $200K

You should be able to find a great boat, fully equipped and ready to go offshore, in this price range. Don’t be tempted to go for a cheap 50-footer over a great 40-footer. It is easy to be seduced by the room and comfort of a larger vessel. However, annual maintenance, moorage, insurance, and the cost of repairs will also be much higher for the bigger boat.

Worth Saving?

When I started writing this article, I was thinking about old, heavily used boats with good bones worth restoring. But after researching the market, with prices as they are, I think you can get an excellent boat in very usable condition for less than the cost of fixing up a down-at-the-heels example, even if the boat is free.

What to Do

I recommend buying a 20 to 30-year-old boat in good condition, and budgeting for new sails and electronics. Installing new electronics is well within the capabilities of anyone who reads and follows the instructions. This is where DIY really pays off because the knowledge you gain will be invaluable when something goes wrong.

New upholstery and cleaned-up brightwork will brighten things up if needed. Replacing standing and running rigging is not extremely expensive, and is something most owners can undertake themselves.

What to Avoid

Avoid boats needing major structural, engine, or rigging repairs. Avoid boats more than 30 years old unless they are of exceptional quality and very well cared for.

Surveys

Never buy a boat bigger than a dinghy without a survey. The cost of the haulout and the surveyor’s time will save you money. Don’t let small flaws in the survey cause you to abandon a boat you love, but use them to negotiate the price.

Go Sailing

Don’t take on more work or more boat than your budget and time can handle. Getting out cruising sooner will do far more for your life than spending it in a boatyard grinding and sanding.