How to Use a Boat Battery Switch

The familiar 1-BOTH-2-OFF battery switch can still do its job, but modern charging systems and mismatched battery banks make the wrong turn costly. Here’s how to understand your boat’s setup—and avoid flattened batteries or a damaged alternator.

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This little red switch was invented for a much simpler boat than most of us own today. Fifty years ago, a boat might have two ordinary lead-acid batteries, a modest alternator on the diesel or Atomic Four gas engine, a few incandescent lights, perhaps even a refrigeration system, but no solar panels or a secondary way to charge the batteries. Certainly, they wouldn’t have lithium banks or automatic charging relays (ACR).

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Tim Labute
Tim Labute got his start sailing on the Great Lakes racing keel boats, moving up to longer trips through the Erie Canal, East coast, and Caribbean. Tim’s adventures spawned a YouTube channel called Lady K Sailing helping other people get started in the sport. Tim current sails a Hughes 35, a Laser, and teaches people to sail in his CL-14. Tim has come on as the Chief Editor of Practical Sailor.

7 COMMENTS

  1. “If you deliberately or inadvertently rotate that switch to the OFF position while the engine is running, which is very easily done, the alternator suddenly loses its connection to the battery.”

    I have to take issue with this claim that it is “very easily done.” Who goes down to their battery switch while the engine is running, looks at it and decides, “What the heck, I’m going to turn this to the OFF position?” Why would that ever happen?

    I’m glad my mid-80’s Ericson still has such a simple two-battery setup that is easily controlled with this battery switch. Two batteries, and every day when we’re away from shore power I know which one is being used for the electrical load, and which is lying in wait to be used as a starter just in case. It’s been a flawless system.

    • It’s unlikely that switch could get bumped out of position. Usually these things happen during unsual operations like maintenance or troubleshooting. Chernobyl was just fine until they strated some unsual ops…

      Like Drew, I’m on team “Both”. It aslo gives you get an effectively higher capacity leaving them combined. At first read, that doesn’t seem possible, but Nigel Calder explains the math behind leaving the two batteries combined in his book Boat Owner’s Mecahnical and Electrical Manual. I’ve forgotten the logic, but have left them combined ever since.

      NOCO makes an improbably small jump pack that fits in your hand. It’s started a few cars with ease. I’ve never had to use it on the boat but keep one on board ever since a close call without it. The old batteries didn’t have the capaicity I expected so when our Victron battery monitor low voltage alarm went off, the batteries had just enough juice to sloooowly start the engine.

  2. ^^ Easily, perhaps not. But a lot of boaters have fried diodes and other electronics (voltage surge) that way, so the warning is appropriate. How else would they learn of the risk? BTW, the warning extends to Lithium batteries, where the BMS can disconnect automatically (a longer story).

    Personally, I’ve always left the switch on “both” for the life of the boat with several boats. I’m careful not to run the batteries flat.