Today, the average cruising boat is probably in the 40- to 45-foot range. To my mind, that is too big for a couple to handle in all conditions. True, electric winches and furling mainsails can reduce physical effort—until something goes wrong. The forces at play on a big boat are huge, and beyond what a normal human can handle without mechanical aids. Smaller boats have smaller masts, sails, and anchors. Since they have fewer hull openings, they are easier to keep watertight. Finally, because they are simpler, they are easier to maintain in faraway ports.
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The simplicity of your voice and years of experience designing and sailing boats makes this article valuable for any serious off shore sailing enthusiast. Looking forward to reading more from the treasure of experience that you have.
Thanks – I’m new to sailing and learning a lot reading these articles. Certainly, my fantasies are becoming less grandiose and there is a practical reality setting in, especially since I’ve taken a couple of sailing lessons.
I look forward to many more informative and fun articles.
Interesting and helpful piece. Thank you. I am currently doing a major refurbishment of a Chuck Paine designed, Tom Morris built Frances 26. The hull, keel and rudder are all in perfect shape (Chuck worked on them recently) but everything, and I do mean everything else is gutted and being replaced. My intent is to single hand an Atlantic crossing with her so that is always front of mind as I work through the process.
I’m glad to see a seasoned expert support the value to ‘going small’, and have seen a couple of cases where near-retirement age folks overbought and either physically, financially, or emotionally (or some combo) became overwhelmed. I’ve gratefully learned that a smaller boat sailed more often is better than a larger boat at the dock. I can see a lot of utility in focusing on displacement, not only regarding storage space but also as to on-going (kentucky windage) maintenance costs. Respectfully, I would disagree on the freestanding rudder and am a believer in the value of protecting it at all costs. I’d not considered the value of the wheeled-auto-pilot versus the tiller-mounted, but that seems prudent. One thing not mentioned but one which I think about is tracking ability. I’m uncertain as how to determine that other than by reputation. Your experience on that topic would be greatly appreciated. Great article. Thanks!
Great article! I sailed my first sailboat in 1979, a C&C-36 in St. Thomas, with NO sailing experience, except reading a couple books. Sailed dozens of boats in the BVI & the Bay Islands. Owned three power boats, 53, 56, and 44′ Powercat. At 81, and in good shape, I’m still dreaming of sailing the world. Your article is very helpful, since my wife says “no” more living on a sailboat. ha-ha So, solo I will go.
Thanks Grahame for your very direct and prescriptive recommendations. Very much the reason I bought a 1985 Hallberg-Rassy 352 four years ago in my plans to go cruising. Love the hard dodger for all the reasons you describe. I also like the center cockpit but do agree that while I have not yet experienced heavy seas and filling up the cockpit — the drainage for these bath tub areas is simply not good enough; would much prefer an open cockpit that quickly drains astern along with a more accessible transom for getting on board that comes along with most open cockpits.
This is a good article covering the features and advantages of a good cruising sailboat. Having raced and sailed on a range for boats from a Palmer Johnson 42′, a C&C 39, a Cal 3-30 and a Olsen 34 I have found that a ~34 foot sail boat is a good size to consider for cruising and racing. I lean to the larger size for stability and speed to get you safely to where you need to go. The 34 foot sail boat has room for a good head, a nav station and a workable galley. What’s important is that you have a boat you can afford and love to sail.
A very good overview. I am curious about the preference for a wheel, specifically because of the autopilot. I cruised a Jason 35′ cutter with tiller and tiller-pilot. I considered that a toy-pilot. Heavy lifting was done by the venerable Aries wind vane for tens of thousands of miles at sea. No electricity required. Consider the critical path of components that all must work for an autopilot to function: From the solar panels to batts to electrical distribution to control head to ram to rudder angle sensor, et al…. Many items to fail there, any one of which can stop the autopilot.
I now own a boat with wheel steering. A good friend owns a boat with tiller steering. Both have below deck autopilots, with rams attached to arms on the rudder shaft; independent of quadrant or tiller.
Wonderfully readable & practical insights on cruising in small boats on big water. I do think there’s room for a couple of opposing views on some of what Grahame wrote. First, it’s difficult for smaller cruising boats to generate the electrical energy required by a below decks a/p, assuming long passages. Yet self-steering of some fashion is essential for a smaller boat’s smaller crew. Add to this Grahame’s preference for a semi-balanced spade rudder, and the obvious choice is to add an aux rudder-style self-steering vane. (There is an affordable, well designed & built option being sold out of one of the Baltic States right now). And once the vane is added, there’s no longer a reason to have a wheel steering pedestal, wheel and it’s many components. Plus a raised tiller opens up the cockpit at anchor and can use an electrically efficient and inexpensive tiller pilot when e.g. motoring. That bit aside, I thought Grahame’s comments should be shared widely with the sailing public, especially those who “think” they want to do distance cruising.
Several people commented on wheel versus tiller and below decks autopilot versus wind vane.
My own boat is 37 feet and on the heavy side for a tiller. I like the fingertip steer ease of my Lewmar rod steering. The 350 watts of solar on my boat is sufficient to keep up with the autopilot and the fridge. Because the boat is well balanced the pilot doesn’t work hard and power consumption is modest.
That said, a good auxiliary rudder wind vane adds another dimension of safety and definitely saves power. But in coastal cruising the ease of engaging the pilot and usefulness under power would make me loathe to give it up.
I do carry an emergency rudder and tiller on long passages. It is a repurposed J/24 rudder which can be affixed to the transom. So far it is unused.