Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Each manufacturer offers specific guidance for terminal assembly, and some do a better job than others. The following is a generic description of the assembly process using a Norseman fitting as an example. The other two fittings in our comparison, the Sta-Lok and the Hi-Mod, incorporate a third component, a crown that helps guide and hold the wire strands in place.

A couple of months ago, PS Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo disassembled a headstay that he had used aboard his Ericson 41 sloop, Wind Shadow, for nearly a decade. It was set up with Norseman fittings as terminals for 3/8-inch diameter, 1x19 stainless-steel wire that had supported a Harken roller-furling system. During disassembly, neither the wire nor the end fittings showed signs of corrosion or physical wear. And when the fittings themselves were taken apart-requiring heat to free the sealant in the terminal-the wire bundle was pristine and showed no sign of any slippage or corrosion.

When rigs fail, it is often a spectacular event, precipitated by the sudden breakage of a rig component-a wire, a terminal, or a chainplate, for instance. Because this so often comes as a surprise, and because it has been known to happen even to conscientious sailors who regularly inspect their rigging, it is natural to assume that at least some of the causes must be hard to detect; they must be, to some extent, hidden. And this is true. Ish.

Any suggestions for an SSB-radio antenna installation on a 32-foot boat with a gaff rig and no backstay? Also, the hull is mild steel, and the standing rigging is galvanized wire, except the forestays, which are stainless.

This issue of Practical Sailor offers a wake-up call for owners of sailboats with rigs of an indeterminate age. But it also offers some hope. Over the years, weve published a variety of articles on the hidden risks of stainless-steel hardware-chainplates, tangs, toggles, clevis pins, etc.-important bits that keep a rig from coming down.

When the forecast turns bad, and its time to find shelter in a new cove or harbor, questions arise about the holding ground, swinging room, and the influence of tide, current, and surge. But there should be little question about the ground tackle and whether or not its up to the challenge at hand. Its true that no anchor comes with a written guarantee to always set and hold, and there are conditions in which each may fail, but the more time one spends anchored out, the more overkill or ground tackle safety margin is warranted. During our acquisition of sea sense, we inevitably discover the range of conditions that our primary (working) anchor can handle, usually discovering its limitations the hard way.

During the initial swap, I couldnt help but notice how much more fluke area the Manson provided compared to the CQR. And the claw-like geometry seemed to more efficiently grab the bottom when compared with the CQRs plow shape. These assumptions were supported during initial anchoring efforts. The Manson grabbed hold of the bottom with very little scope deployed; breakout took a more concerted effort; and the amount of sand, and mud and other detritus retrieved from familiar anchorages was much greater than what the CQR hauled to the surface. The value of a pressure wash-down pump rose considerably.

Rope is the mainstay of sailboat rigging, and knot-craft and splicing are the marks of a seaman. Sewn joins are also practical-and weve explored those in depth (see PS October 2014 online)-but there are times when flat webbing serves better; for example, reefing strops, jacklines and tethers, and straps for attaching sails and tackle to spars. But how do you form the loops required to attach them to hardware and other fittings?

Fiber shackles have been in use for centuries-the simple knotted toggles provided all manner of service on square-riggers and even older craft. When made correctly with the right material, fiber shackles are strong, can be released without tools, and are jam-proof in the most severe weather. Like cotton sails, this 200-year-old technology has been updated through the use of modern materials.

I was reading a Mailport letter in the December 2014 issue of Practical Sailor, and it led me to your May 27, 2014 blog regarding keel failure. We have a 1977 Islander 28 with a bolted-on fin keel that is creating a safety issue. I am confident I know what the proper repair is (remove the keel and re-secure it), but I am more wondering if youve ever seen anything like this. On the starboard side of the keel, below the keel joint, a square chunk of lead is bulging out of the keel side. Ive had a few surveyors take a look at it, and theyve never seen anything like it either. The keel bolts do not leak-at least water doesn't come in. Thoughts?