Anchors on the University of Maryland’s Rachel Carson are prepared for deployment into the Chesapeake Bay muck.

Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms

Practical Sailor carried out its own series of anchor tests in a mud bottom in 2006 (see April 2006 and October 2006 issues), and those tests bore out a commonly known fact: Danforth-style anchors, which feature flukes that are proportionally larger than other types of anchors of the same mass, tend to hold better than older, plough-style anchors in soft mud. When Practical Sailor was invited to witness Fortresss test, editors were initially skeptical; the playing field seemed heavily tilted in Fortresss favor. In the end, however, it was a busy test schedule, not outright skepticism, that prevented our attending.
Switching to small-diameter, high-tensile chain (G70 or greater) leads to a hunt for small shackle pins to fit the chain’s smaller-diameter openings without weakening the rode. A small-diameter, high-tensile pin joins two U-shaped parts in a hammerlink (at left). Some sailors use omega links (at right) like these 6-mm Excel omega links from Van Beest (pictured with G80 chain). The yellow omega connector shows an assembly with a very short clevis pin (centering load). The identical, grey omegas were both Armorgalv-coated; the one on the left was tested to failure. The bow opened slightly, allowing the pin to be released and sheared. (Photo/ Jonathan Neeves)

Anchor Shackles: The $15 Insurance Policy

Were always amazed how a sailor can spend months agonizing and wringing his hands over which anchor to purchase, and then, when he finally shells out $700 or much more for the anchor, hell attach it to a shackle that has no business being on a boat. Weve plowed through the topic of shackles in several recent issues, but we havent looked specifically at anchor shackles for more than a decade. Choosing a properly sized, high-quality shackle is important, but its also essential to be familiar with proper use.

Making Sense of Marine Chain Standards

Chain is made from wire. The cross-sectional area and strength of the wire determines the strength of the chain. The weld of each link should be stronger than the wire, so if a chain breaks, it should break in the body (wire)-usually at the crown, or the curve in the link-not the weld.

Drudging To a Safe Landing

The word "drudging" can be traced to the middle-English word for dragging. It is the practice of using a chain, heavy weight, or anchor...

Reading the Telltales on Your Sails

Even the most laid-back cruiser has days when he would like to get there an hour sooner. But speed is not the only reason to fine-tune sail trim. Proper sail trim can often eliminate the noise of motoring. Properly trimmed sails last longer.
Ultra claims its ball-and-socket swivel (top) is stronger than the chain it is meant to pair with, even when side-loaded, so attaching it directly to the anchor is no problem. Nevertheless, it’s obvious how the forks on a streamlined, jaw-and-jaw barrel swivel could pry open as side-loading increases. We saw evidence of this in our samples.

Anchor Swivels: Caution Required

Stroll down the docks at any boat show, and youll see a surprising number of boats equipped with expensive, stainless-steel swivels between the anchor and the chain. Almost all of these swivels are highly polished, machined and/or welded gems that cost anywhere from $80 to $200 or more. By comparison, a galvanized anchor shackle rated to withstand the same or greater loads as the chain rode we rely on costs less than $15.

Lateral Thinking and Anchoring

When we think of anchoring a yacht we think of the obvious—deploy and set an anchor from the bow with a single rode. Our...

The Wrong Angle: Why Your Cam Cleats Won’t Hold or Release

Cam cleats are a marvel for their ability to quickly hold and then release lines under moderate tension. They are found on the simplest...
Boat Owner’s Mechanical & Electrical Manual Book from Practical Sailor

Sailboat Rig Inspection Tips

How frequently do you bother removing spreader boots and taping to check the condition of the spreaders and rigging? No matter how well the spreader ends are protected, and whether you use ready-made vinyl spreader boots or conventional rigging tape, water will get through to the fittings inside. On a boat used in salt water, the atmosphere's corrosive nature can cause rapid disintegration of aluminum fittings (nevermind the fact that the spreaders might be 25 feet or more off the water). The thorough taping job you did on the spreader ends may actually accelerate the problem by holding in water.

Revive Your Mast Like a Pro

Unobtainium is the metal at the top of every Naval Architect’s wish list. It’s a perfect marine material; light, strong, stiff yet flexible—it’s as...

Is This the Best 35-Foot Sailboat Ever Made? Catalina 350

Is the Catalina 350 one of the best 35-foot cruising sailboats ever built? In this Practical Sailor boat tour, we take a close look...

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Cabot 36 Used Boat Review

The Cabot 36 is a sought-after, medium-displacement, 36-ft. cutter from the 1970s that can provide security and comfort for a budget-conscious sailor willing to...