PS Advisor
March 2012 Issue
A Look at Anchor Rodes
Chain-to-chain connections and choosing proper line.
I have a rope/chain rode on my Monk 36 trawler. I would like to add 50 feet of chain to the 100 feet that I already have. Is it acceptable to use a two-part connector link to do this—like the link with pins that are peened together?
Tim Nesterak
Monk 36
A link connector or swivel will be much weaker under tension than your lengths of chain, and intentionally adding a “weak link” to your chain is a bad idea. A D-shackle to D-shackle junction would be better, but you would have to manually move it around a windlass chain gypsy.
In our opinion, your best—and safest—option would be to replace the chain with a 150-foot length, then use the old chain for a second anchor or as backup.
Anchor Rodes
Besides chain, it seems all anchor line is nylon because of its stretch. However, after reading your assessment of dock lines and mooring rodes, polyester would be preferable for its superior abrasion resistance. I do notice, though, that some of the nylon line recommended for anchor rode has similar elongation to polyester line (10 to 20 percent of average strength).
I have a 15,000-pound 35 Niagara with a 35-pound CQR primary anchor and 30 feet of 5/16-inch chain. I don’t have a windlass.
I am considering using Novabraid’s Novablue line (4.5 percent elongation at 10 percent strength), which has more elongation than Sampson’s Super Strong (3 percent) or Deep 6 (2.8 percent). The other line I was considering is Yale Polydyne, which I thought offered the best of both worlds: nylon core for stretch and polyester sheathing for abrasion resistance. But I am concerned about how well the different lines would work together over time, and the elongation is only 4 percent.
Most of my anchoring here on the Chesapeake is with less than 100 feet of line, so I am considering 200 feet of 5/8-inch line—larger than I need, but I am figuring the line will lose some of its original strength over time and when it is wet.
I am using three-strand now, but I want something that will get through the deck pipe and fit into the rode locker more easily. Price is important, but I am not sure that the difference in the price of the different lines will deter me from buying the one that will best maintain its strength, abrade the least, and do the best job of keeping the anchor set.
Robert Max
Niagara 35
We generally recommend high-grade, three-strand nylon for anchor rodes because of its cost effectiveness and elasticity—essential under surging loads. Certainly there are more chafe-resistant lines, but using chafe gear is a more sensible way to prevent rode chafe.
According to Stephen Parola at New England Ropes, you can achieve similar elasticity in polyester rode by adjusting the amount of twist, but this can also affect the handling of the rope. A stretchy braided-polyester rope can be fairly stiff and just as hard to stow. Hockling is also an issue in braided ropes. Regardless, we strongly recommend nylon over polyester. As an alternative to three-strand, you have two options in our opinion, both nylon: a braided line (single or double braided), or a multi-strand nylon line (typically eight or more strands). Any of these rope types are more expensive, and their strands are more vulnerable to getting snagged and pulling loose.
Neal Prescott at Novabraid recommended the company’s 12-strand product, Nytec-12, over the braided Novabraid Blue. He said that if you opted for Novabraid (or a similar double-braid product) and plan to be anchored for long periods, you should go up one size to better combat chafe, or use chafe gear.
A 5/8-inch rope rode with a short (at least 6 feet) chain leader is fine for the shallow Chesapeake where you sail, but it is not what we’d recommend for venturing outside the bay or northward toward Maine. For serious long-term cruising, chain rode is still king—and it rattles down a hawse pipe quite readily.








Comments (2)
So, use either a high stretch product or preferably all chain. This makes little sense.Don't rely on stretch or catenary shape to take sudden shock. Anchoring is still one of the most disputed areas of cruising. Very little in specifics are given, almost no proofs are supplied for various theories and rarely is the actual physics brought in to play. We have gone to a much heavier anchor (27kg for a 12.6m boat@12 metric tons)because that is where you want the weight, on the bottom, digging in. Our rode is comprised of 10 meters of 9mm chain and the rest is 20mm (Samson ProSet 3) with a snubbing bridle (2)-3m legs, each with a rubber element off bow cleats, with anti chafe gear. We use the thicker rode because we find it easier to handle, the stretch is reduced and there is a better margin with any wear. If we anchor in areas with coral bottoms we add an additional 10 meter section of chain. So far this setup has been flawless. we have 200m of rope rode at 50kg and 20m of chain at another 50kg with (2) 27kg anchors. Total weight of 154kg. We move the anchors and rodes inside and low during crossings, leaving the chain locker empty. If we need to, we can maintain a 5:1 scope in 42m of water. We also carry an emergency anchor at the stern with a 15kg anchor on 4m of chain and 100m of 16mm nylon rode. I have no doubt MANY people will find fault with this rig, I just felt it time to throw my own thoughts in! However, when the wind is screaming outside, I rest easy.
Posted by: Marc B | April 18, 2012 8:20 AM Report this comment
Yeah chain is great if you have enough weight in the stern to counteract the much heavier load vs a nylon line. My boat already is a bit down in the bow and I am changing over to a 1/2 inch line ( Cal 35 ~ 14000 lbs factory),since I have been finding information telling me that the 5/8'' the boat came with is not going to provide enough stretch.
Posted by: ED W | March 28, 2012 7:29 PM Report this comment
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