Electrical

Extra Anchor Lighting

When summer comes, a dozen or more sparkling white lights will adorn every popular anchorage. Visible from miles away, they promise to provide good...

DIY Electrical System Survey and Inspection

So, you’ve finally purchased that new (or new-to-you) boat of your dreams. Now is a great time to familiarize yourself with its systems—a good...
Essential tools for rewriting (left to right): fish tape, RJ45 crimping toolelectrician's tape, 10 pound mason's line (pull string), 1 insulated terminal crimping pliers, long-jawed hemostat, and wire cutters.

A Smart, Easy Way to Rewire

Running the wires for new electronics requires your best cursing vocabulary, lots of sweat, twisting body contortions, luck, and the occasional bandage. For tips on how to make this job easier, we turned to PS contributor Bill Bishop. A professional marine-electronics installer, Bishop has many ingenious ways to thread a wire from point A to point B.

Small Wire Connections: Best Methods

Connecting two standard-size wires is pretty straightforward: Grab a ratchet crimper, adjust it to fit the crimp connector, strip the two wires to fit into the butt connector, slide the wires into the connector, and squeeze the crimper. The required materials are readily available: butt connectors for inline splices, ring connectors for terminal blocks, and a dab of anti-corrosive grease for the bolts and rings. Done right, these connections can survive some extremely tough conditions. In a recent test of anti-corrosion greases and connections, we demonstrated how these connections can last up to five years in the worst bilge conditions.

Watertight Connector Test

If only there was a good standardized 12-volt electrical connector. I’ve never had a boat without multiple connector failures, and most of them involved...
Learn how to beat range anxiety and make the most of your electric outboard's capabilities. (Photo courtesy of ePropulsion)

Electric Outboard Charging Tips

Somewhere around the third carburetor rebuild for our 3.3 hp four stroke dinghy outboard, I decided enough is enough. Four stroke outboards are supposed...
The batteries pictured are Rolls S6 250 flooded cells, nominally 281 a/hr. They came with the boat and are of unknown age but currently seem to work OK. They are not the cell I would pick as they are a lightweight battery. The clue is that the spec sheet gives a CCA number. True deep cycle cells don't have that. The taller L16-EX is rated at three times the cycle life, about 3,750 cycles to 50% DoD compared to these at 2,000. You really do need to look at the full spec to know what you are getting! In Canada these are currently around $320 com-pared to the L16 at $590. The black battery is the starter battery which is a simple H/D car battery that starts the engine and supplies the windlass. (Photo/ Roland Stockham)

House Battery Bank Replacement: What to Consider

Replacing a battery bank on a cruising sailboat  requires a myriad of choices—driven by one overriding goal. What are you hoping to power with...

Simple Lithium for Outboard-Powered Tenders, Daysailers, and Sport Boats

Lithium is cool. Your cell phone uses it. Cameras, laptops, flashlights … everything. But “cool” is not a reason. Fire is not a big...

Ensuring a Safe Space for Batteries

When charging, lead acid batteries generate hydrogen from the electrolysis of water, and some acid gases, the amount of which vary with the battery...

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

In this short article I want to chat about ideas for making the radio bombproof in an emergency. I haven’t “invented” any of these...

Living on a Boat Off Grid: What No One Explains

Living on a boat off-grid sounds simple until you actually try it. No shore power. No marina hookups. No endless electricity. Just batteries, solar,...

Latest Sailboat Review

Union 36 Used Boat Review

While not the best boat for light-air sailing, the Union 36 is a good sailboat for the bluewater cruiser. It wont get you there fast, but it will get you there comfortably and in one piece. The boats teak decks and lavish use of interior wood is attractive but requires much upkeep and maintenance. A product of the Taiwan-U.S. boatbuilding industry, the Union 36 is a heavy-displacement, full-keel, cutter-rigged double-ender designed for ocean sailing. The Union 36 is nearly identical to several other boats built during the same period: the Hans Christian 36, Mariner Polaris 36, and the EO36. According to well-known naval architect Bob Perry, the Union 36 and its cousins are all based on the design of a 34-footer that Perry was commissioned to create back in the early 70s.