Repair, Tools & Materials

A fairly common ailment with cored decks is the presence of soft spots where the outer skin has delaminated from the core material. Typically these areas are found around the mast and on the foredeck where heavy-footed spinnaker handlers have trod, but they are candidates to occur anywhere in a relatively large, flat span of unsupported deck.

For the last decade or so, the majority of all production boats built in the U.S. have been trimmed above and belowdecks with teak. Teak makes abundant sense on deck. With resistance to weathering as its primary virtue, however, teak makes less sense for use as trim below.

Alot of water has gone over the dam since the days when boats were caulked with cotton, and storm windows were snugged up with putty.

Deck joints don’t leak as much as they used to. Most builders have switched to less leak-prone types of joints, and most are more conscientious about fastening and sealing them.

In July 1990 we bought a 1975 C & C 33 to function as a test platform for Practical Sailor. We chose it above others for several reasons: The design seemed typical of many modern sailboats, with a fin keel and spade rudder and moderate displacement; C & C had a good reputation; and the price was right.

For hull bottom and topside repair, we love our Porter-Cable random orbit sander and WEST System Microlight Fairing Compound.

Probably nothing can make or break the appearance of a fiberglass boat more quickly than the appearance of the exterior teak trim. Contrary to popular belief, teak is not a maintenance-free wood that can be safely ignored and neglected for years at a time. Though teak may not rot, it can check, warp, and look depressingly drab if not properly cared for.

A snug-fitting teak grating adds safety and a touch of class to the cockpit of any boat. Spray or rain runs under the grating to the cockpit drains, leaving a reasonably dry footing for hopping about the cockpit as you haul in sheets to tack or trim sails. Unfortunately, you can't buy a grating off the shelf to fit your boat, and having a grating custom-built can be a costly and nerve-wracking experience. The solution to both of these problems: build your own grating. Its a fun job that can keep you busy for a few winter evenings, and you can build it for less than one-third the cost of a custom-built job.

We tested a total of 15 products-including eco-friendly cleaners, concentrated formulas, degreaser-cleaners, and even one homebrew formula-from 11 manufacturers. While the test field wasn't inclusive of all the marine cleaners marketed as multi-purpose products, it did include a good cross-section of products from such companies as Star brite, Nautical Ease, Spray Nine, Yacht Brite, Biokleen, MDR, and Marykate. To get an idea of how they would stand up to real-world tasks, the products were tested on grease and grime on multiple surfaces-fiberglass, rubber, vinyl, and Formica. Practical Sailor also measured the pH balance of each test cleaner to find out which products were best suited for certain applications. With multiple data tables presenting the test findings, the report offers PS's picks for the best general cleaner, the best green cleaner, and the product that offers the best clean for the buck.

Practical Sailor rounded up seven readily available marine sealants and adhesives, including products from 3M, West Marine, BoatLife, and Sika Corp. The test included four polyurethane-based products, one silicone product, one polysulfide caulk, and one polyether caulk. Testers found that not all caulks will work for all applications. For example, the versatile polyurethane 3M 4200 was fast drying but didnt adhere well to wood, and all polyurethane products have to be kept away from acrylics and Lexan surfaces. Products tested were: 3M 5200 Fast Cure, 3M 4200 Fast Cure, West Marine 8200, Sikaflex 291 Lot, 3M Silicone, BoatLife Life-Caulk, and West Marine Multi-caulk.