OSHA has a thing against homemade tools. While a shortened extension on a paint roller won’t give them heartburn, modified power tools and attachments to power tools do. Ladders. Overhead lifting. And even wrenches that could fail in a painful way. If you feel the need to create something to solve a problem, make it sturdy and be certain it cannot hurt you if it fails. When in doubt, search it out and buy a commercial version; the engineering is more likely to be right.
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In my industry we get safety alerts, and we got one of a pipeline worker who died on the job. He was using a 5″ grinder with the guard taken off. The cut-off wheel on the grinder shattered and a flying chunk hit his leg and severed his femoral artery. Grinders aren’t to be trifle with.
A larger diameter aluminum tube, slots cut like your Through-hull Wrench, fits over an Airmar transducer plastic wing nut on the inside. Holes drilled through at the opposite end let you insert a screwdriver (admittedly not its proper job) for leverage.
To remove heavy bronze thru-hulls, I purchased a socket that had an OUTSIDE diameter equal to the ID of the thru-hull, then cut slots in the socket to fit the barbs on the inside of the thru-hull. (My 1 1/12″ thru-hulls needed nominal 1 1/16″ socket for removal, but 1″ socket to set the new 1 1/2″ thru-hull.) I used a small propane torch to carefully heat the thru-hull up to about 200 deg F to weaken the thru-hull’s sealant (I had put a 2′ length of iron pipe on the inside neck of the seacock to quench any flame that made it through the seacock to protect the inside of the boat’s cabinet). Done this twice on different thru hulls and it was easy to remove, and cheaper than buying the special stepped tool they sell for this.