Stuffing Box Care

A few drips per minute keep your stuffing box healthy—but more than that means it's time for adjustments or a complete packing replacement.

0
A corroded stuffing box isn’t necessarily a sign of serious trouble, just neglect. Neglect can lead to serious trouble though, if the hose clamps holding the shaft log hose fail. This is why double clamping is essential.

Only boats with inboard engines have stuffing boxes. To locate yours, trace the propeller shaft from the transmission to the point where it exits the hull. That’s where your stuffing box will be, unless you have a newer, dripless-style shaft seal installed instead.

The purpose of a stuffing box is to allow the propeller shaft to exit the hull while keeping water out. The shaft is sealed by compressing packing material against it, most often by using a hollow nut that screws onto a matching fitting attached to the inboard side of the shaft log hose. Another common style features a tightening arrangement that uses a plate secured by nuts and studs on either side of the shaft.

The more you tighten either type of gland, the more the packing gets compressed against the shaft. Most packing consists of a square-plaited material and comes either as traditional greased (or waxed) flax, or a more modern version impregnated with PTFE.

Corrosion and leaks are common problems you’ll encounter when inspecting your stuffing box. The shaft log hose, which connects the stuffing box to the hull in most installations, should also be inspected for deterioration due to age (a common problem), corroded hose clamps, etc.

The Right Number of Drips

Anatomy of an old-style dripping stuffing box: Starting at the prop and moving forward, we see the principal components of a somewhat complex and mission critical system. The zinc anode. The cutless bearing at the through-hull, which keeps the prop shaft centered, true and friction free. The shaft log, through which passes the prop shaft. A quadruple-clamped hose, first line of defense in keeping seawater out. The packing nut at the extreme inboard end of the drive train is the essence of the system. It’s stuffed with felt packing material that expands when wet and blocks seawater from coming into the boat. It needs to drip, which tells you the felt packing is wet and therefore doing its job. Illustration by Bruce Bingham.

Water helps lubricate the packing material so it’s okay for a stuffing box to leak a few drips (3 to 4 per minute) while the vessel is underway. More than that amount (say 10 drops per minute) or drips while the shaft is not turning indicates the need for adjustment and/or maintenance. A leaking stuffing box can cause a number of issues, from corrosion (the spinning shaft slings excess water all over your engine compartment) to sinkings (see “Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box“), particularly if the boat is left unattended in the water for longer periods of time.

Packing material will harden over time (as the lubricant dries out) and gets worn away by shaft rotation, allowing water to pass and enter the vessel. When this happens, most people simply tighten the packing nut(s) to compress the packing material and stop or reduce the leak.

This works to a point, but as the packing gets smaller it also gets harder. Keep compressing it and it will eventually score the propeller shaft, which will then have to be replaced before the stuffing box will seal properly. Avoid such problems by simply replacing the packing on a regular basis. See “Packing Extraction Tool Tested.”

Dripless Shaft Seals

Dripless Shaft Seal

Dripless shaft seals are an alternative to packing glands. They prevent water from entering the hull via pressure loading, typically by using a compressed rubber bellows to hold a graphite collar against a stainless steel collar. High-speed vessel installations will usually have a water injection hose plumbed to the engine’s raw water cooling systems, which helps reduce heat generated between the two contact surfaces.

While they don’t require re-packing like traditional stuffing boxes, dripless shaft seals still have regularly scheduled maintenance requirements that must be carried out to ensure proper operation. These include periodic removal and inspection, as well as keeping the cooling hose mentioned above clear and open.

Capt. Frank Lanier is an accredited marine surveyor with over 30 years of experience in the marine industry. His website is www.captfklanier.com.

This article was published on 18 January 2019 and has been updated. 

Captain Frank Lanier is a 28 year Coast Guard veteran and SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industry. He holds a 100GT masters license, is an FCC licensed electronics technician and a PADI Master SCUBA Diver Trainer. He's captained and maintained vessels ranging from dive boats to passenger ferries in the Atlantic, Caribbean, and South Pacific and has over 15 years of liveaboard experience aboard both power and sailing vessels. He's also an author, public speaker, and multiple award winning journalist whose articles on seamanship, marine electronics, vessel maintenance and consumer reports appear regularly in numerous marine publications, such as BoatUS Magazine, Practical Sailor Magazine, Southern Boating, SEA Magazine, Boating World, Lakeland Boating and Australian Yachting. His website is https://captfklanier.com/