Boat Maintenance

Linear polyurethane paint is a thin, hard coating in comparison to gelcoat, and does not have the same ability to be compounded and waxed. It can be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive detergent, and some can be waxed. But once the gloss is gone, it takes very careful use of a fine rubbing compound and wax to extend the coatings life for an extra season or two. The one-step waxes compared in our April 2007 issue were not tested on LPU paints because most contain an abrasive that, with repeated use, would shorten the life of an LPU paint.

In 1997, we routed a recess around the windows and had new acrylic windows bedded without mechanical fasteners. We eventually had to add mechanical fasteners. But the bolt holes werent large enough to allow for expansion, and in 2004, we replaced the windows again. Now, they are cracking at the bolts. Weve realized they are affected by hull flexing. Were seriously considering fiberglassing the openings and installing portlights. If we decide to install Lexan windows, which compound and caulking should be used?

Using an elastic nylon riding stopper (aka snubber) is always recommended when deploying an all-chain rode. Snubbers act as shock absorbers between rode and vessel, while at the same time transferring surge loading caused by wind and waves from the windlass to a deck cleat. No windlass is built to bear the load of a deployed anchor, particularly the bone-jarring snatches of an all-chain rode fetching up short.

Keel voids of this size are quite common, and its one reason why you don't see bare lead at boat shows or in the dealers lot. Casting imperfections and partial, localized collapse of the sand mold cause these voids and much worse. When voids form around the support for the keel bolts, bad things happen. Narrow, high-aspect keels tolerate this far less, and its one of the reasons carbon or high-modulus steel fins and ballast bulbs now rule in that realm.We forwarded this readers question on to the folks at Alerion, who then passed it on to Mars Metal, a Canadian-based metal manufacturer and one of the most prominent manufacturers of lead keels. Heres what they suggested.

At some point in the life of a cruising sailboat, hull wax or fiberglass polish is no longer an option and restoring gel coat requires more serious commitment. Hull restorers contain water-based emulsions of acrylic or acrylic/urethane resins. The resins are tiny droplets suspended in water. When applied the water evaporates, and the resins flow together to form clear films. The process is similar to what happens with many fiberglass or gel-coat finishes. For this Practical Sailor test, surface preparation was critical. If you miss a streak of dirt or grease, that blemish will become trapped under the hull restorer.

Barnacle removal is ranks among the least favorite boat maintenance chore for a cruising sailor. In our last barnacle remover test, https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/barnacle-removers two products stood out. The most effective was Star brite Zebra Mussel and Barnacle Remover, but we also had good results from a milder product called Marsolve. This time around, we tried a solution with the promising name of Barnacle Buster and documented the results with time-lapse photography.

Wouldnt it be nice if you could have a rust-proof boat? In search of our ideal anti-corrosion coating, we chose the products based largely on their advertised claims and also on how easy they were to find. Among the products we tested for corrosion prevention: West Marine CorrosionPro Lube, CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, Corrosion Block, Boeshield T-9, WD-40, CorrosionX, Corrosion X HD, Shark Hide, LPS 1, LPS 2, LPS 3, and TC-11 all popped up during Internet searches. We left out products that made no specific claims for use in the marine environment.

Practical Sailors readers have long been asking for a test of antifouling paints in freshwater. Last summer, we sank antifouling paint-covered test panels in Lake Erie, and now, the short-term results are in. The top performers, Pettit Super Premium and Pettit Hydrocoat, are laced with copper, but theyre probably overkill for seasonal boaters. While we havent had much luck in salt water with those low-copper, slick racing paints like Pettit SR-21 and Interlux VC-17M, these freshwater paints hold up well in Lake Erie.

At Practical Sailor, were always looking for boat maintenance shortcuts. Typically, restoring and protecting an oxidized hull is a two-step process, compounding with a mild abrasive, followed by waxing. This time, we looked for the lazy-mans approach-so-called one-step cleaner/waxes. Among the contenders: Collinite 870, Meguiars 50, Restructure Marine Polish, Meguiars 67, 3M Fiberglass Cleaner Wax, 3M Clean & Shine, Interlux Premium, West Marine One Step, Star brite Cleaner Wax, and Simoniz Cleaner/Wax. After three months in the Florida sun, the shirkers route is looking pretty good.

In an update to our June 2006 and January 2007 metal polish test, we pit three products against PSs favored metal polish: Miracle Cloth (the top pick for both stainless steel and bronze). The challengers-Sure Shine from Weems & Plath and Metal Polish Pros Mirage Polish & Sealant and Prism Polish-debuted in the bronze cleaner test published in January. This time, we put them to work on a stainless steel bow railing. Both Sure Shine and Prism Polish performed well, but the hands-down winner for shiny stainless remains Miracle Cloth.