Islander Bahama 30 Used Boat Review

If you're an avid DIYer looking for a coastal cruiser/racer worth your time and attention, the Islander 30 returns your efforts with stable, fast sailing.

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The Islander Bahama 30 is the right size and the right budget for sailors of all persuasions. Expect to spend some time on spruce-ups and upgrades. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

More than a few years ago my wife Carey and I were looking to move up from our O’Day 25 to something a little larger, “two-foot-itis fever” had set in. With our daughter Nicky, we had sailed the O’Day along the coast of British Columbia for eight fabulous years. She was now attaining teenage years and we needed more room! We had visited boat shows to get ideas, scoured magazine listings, and climbed aboard some fairly musty boats without success. An advertisement in a local sailing magazine caught our eye, a 1978 Islander Bahama 30 at a price we could almost afford. We made the ferry trek to the broker on Vancouver Island and, as is typical, Carey and Nicky dove below to check out the interior. I climbed on deck to check out the sailing gear. With no apparent surprises on deck, I dropped below to join the girls. A voluminous interior greeted me through a wide companionway. Far more room than the O’Day, and with a similar layout that sold us on the O’Day. We were sold!

Trade-in negotiations were successful and we were soon sailing away as proud owners of an Islander Bahama 30 with a long list of pending changes bouncing around in our heads. The following eight years witnessed a complete re-build from keel to masthead. It wasn’t all work, we enjoyed plenty of sailing, including an adventurous circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Unfortunately, family illness forced the sale of that wonderful boat, a tearful day indeed.

A few years later, and back to health, the search for another boat was back on. Pure happenstance found another 1978 Islander Bahama 30 at the same marina as the first. As Bahama 30s are quite rare in our waters, we took this as a positive omen. Plenty of work and boat dollars followed. We’ve sailed that boat for over 22 years now and our granddaughter, Natasha, the boat’s namesake, has developed from a child to young adult during our summers.

This review is about that boat, as purchased (and probably came from the factory), and as efforts over the years have restored and upgraded her.

Islander History

The history of the Islander Corporation is an unmitigated mess. Started in the 1960s by a gentleman by the name of Joseph McGlasson, a 24-ft. wooden sailboat was designed and sold on a hand made basis. A fiberglass mold was made from one of the hulls and the Islander company was off and running. Amongst a number of different models, McGlasson designed the original Islander 30 first launched in 1968. Initial production was in an open factory in Costa Mesa, California. Over the following years numerous models followed, from the Robert Perry-designed Islander 29 and Islander 32 to the most popular Islander 36 designed by Dan Gurney, and culminating in the mighty Bruce King-designed Islander 55. An interesting side note, of the very few I 55s constructed, hull # 1 was purchased by the Beach Boys and featured a piano in the main cabin! I’ve been aboard one of these and all the construction details mirror those of the Islander production line.

Islander Bahama 30 Specs

A product of her age, the 1978 Islander Bahama 30 has the look and feel of a vintage IOR racer: split underbody, spade rudder, flat sheer and maximum beam amidships. Contrast her lines and accommodation plan with contemporary cruisers, with beam carried well aft and an open transom. Like a lot of Islanders of the period, the Bahama 30 boasts a huge, easy-to-manage quarterberth. Image courtesy of Sailboatdata.com


The Islander company did not fare well with bankruptcies and ownership changes, resulting in a very chaotic paper trail. Somewhere in there, naval architect Robert Finch was commissioned to design what was to become the Islander 30 Mark II and the Bahama 30. Although similar in appearance, these two boats were distinctly different above and below the waterline. On the Mark II the coach roof is lower and the interior more traditional. The galley stretches along the port side with a dinette to starboard. The Bahama has a U-shaped galley to port and opposing settees in the main cabin. The underbodies are similar although the rudder on the Mark II is much further aft. Both models emerged over a 12-year period ending in 1985 with over 500 built. From what I can glean, prior to ceasing operations in 1985 during another period of financial instability, Islander production was moved to Texas and eventually to Costa Rica.

Construction

As is typical of production fabrication of the 70s and 80s era of fiberglass boat building, model lines within companies were constructed side by side, the Islander 30 Mark II being built at the same time as the Bahama 30 and 28 and so on. Hardware and detail work were mirrored on each boat.

The Bahama 30 is of solid fiberglass construction with a plywood cord deck and cabin trunk. The hull/deck joint is an inward turned flange on the hull with the deck sitting on a sealing compound. A slotted aluminum toe rail sits atop the joint, through bolted every four inches. Certainly not the most elegant of joints, and somewhat prone to weeping leaks requiring annual maintenance. However, the nuts are accessible once the vinyl headliner is removed. A quarter turn usually seals the leaks.

A quiet cove and a good book. The Islander Bahama 30 has the word “easy” written all over it. Her last-century closed transom is still the way to go in northern climes where boarding seas will be significantly colder. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

The hull is of one-piece construction with a fully enclosed lead keel. No keel bolts to worry about! But even a minor grounding that causes no structural damage will fracture the fiberglass at the bottom of the keel. That repair, minor as it may be, requires draining any water that has entered the voids in the keel before repairs can be undertaken. Patching the fiberglass is a simple repair that an owner can probably take on at minimal expense. But it takes time to drain the water, and time is money in a boatyard.

The foam-filled balanced spade rudder is fabricated on a stainless-steel rudder post accessible through the stern locker. Earlier models were held in a simple fiberglass tube from hull to above the water line. No stuffing box or bearings, simply stainless steel in a fiberglass tube. Later models added a stuffing box atop the tube, but I am unaware of any specific bearing material ever incorporated into the tube. Because I have an earlier model, I have never had water enter the boat through the top of the tube, or any concern about wear. The steering quadrant and cabling is readily visible and available for inspection in the stern locker.

The keel sump runs from the base of the mast support to engine compartment, about 12 inches wide and deep. Plywood subframes tabbed to the hull support the cabin sole. Limber holes allow any bilge water free run fore and aft. There is plenty of room for bilge pump(s). On Natasha I have divided the sump so that the wet part at the stern (cockpit lockers leeks and engine room spillage) and forward (shower sump) have their own compartments with individual pumps. The majority of the sump is dry so there’s far less odor emitting from the bilge.

The early production models were fraught with osmoses blisters below the waterline. At purchase survey our first Bahama 30 showed a few random blisters on the hull, an issue that didn’t cause me much concern at the time. However, when repairs were undertaken the following winter it was discovered that the previous owner had applied a complete new layer of gelcoat to hide the thousands of blisters in the original hull! Only the largest blisters were showing though the new layer of gelcoat to be noted by the surveyor. But Islander built the hulls strongly with plenty of material to work with. Repairs were completed successfully with copious amounts of work by a motivated owner. The hull is better than new.

On Deck

The deck of the Bahama 30 is simplicity itself, good access fore and aft along the side decks with an adequately sized cockpit. Depending on the model year, and in some cases, month of production, the bow has a stainless-steel pulpit that supports single or double lifelines. I have yet to see a model that came from the factory with an anchor roller. Yet all came with a shallow anchor locker on the forepeak—strange. The slotted toe rail is either anodized silver or black aluminum stretching bow to stern. A long genoa track is very nicely inset in a molded channel close to the cabin trunk, excellent for sheeting angles while minimizing tripping hazards. Unfortunately, the dimensions of the molded channel restrict the addition of track cars with bearings that would allow movement under load with the appropriate control lines.

Her boulevard-like side decks make going forward a breeze, aided by a nice grab rail on the side of the stoutly framed dodger. We like that rigid vang, and sail controls led aft. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

The leading edge of the cabin trunk curves gently up and around to the cabin top. A large forward-opening integrated plexiglass hatch is positioned over the head compartment, just forward of the mast. In early models there are no opening ports into the V-berth or head compartment, unless the fixed ports have been replaced by the owner.

Unlike some other designs of the time, the Bahama has low freeboard and sheer with a somewhat raised cabin trunk. This makes it convenient to climb aboard from the dock or dinghy, but makes the step from the side deck to cabin top more of a reach. Every design has its compromises.

Leak-Prone Areas

Moving back along the side decks, the chain plates are set well inboard against the cabin trunk allowing outboard movement fore and aft. The upper and lower shrouds meet at single chainplates set into deck level stainless steel tangs. The tangs are through bolted into the main cabin bulkhead. Although not fastened to the deck this is a potential of water ingress into the deck plywood core. Lifting the small deck plate and re-caulking is an annual maintenance requirement. The forward lower shroud, which keeps the mast from pumping in heavy seas and is through bolted to the forward bulkhead, has the same issue.

Another source of persistent leaks are the large main cabin fixed windows. Perfect for allowing copious amounts of light into the cabin, these plexiglass windows, sealed in plastic one-piece frames, also minutely with the motion of the hull. The flexing eventually breaks the sealant. The cabin trunk is constructed of a fiberglass outer skin over a 3/8-in. plywood core. The plywood is then hidden behind the interior vinyl headliner; a recipe for plywood rot should water get in! And it does. Owners need to ensure that the windows are properly sealed.

Cabin-Top

Teak handrails reside on both sides of the cabin trunk from cockpit to the forward edge of the cabin, a welcome handhold when going forward in seas. A small half-round teak trim adorns the side of the trunk above the windows, nicely lowering the apparent height of the cabin trunk. I’ve noted some owners have replaced the handrails with stainless steel and painted the trim in an effort to reduce maintenance. Not quite as traditional. On Natasha, previous owners had sanded the half-round teak into non-existence. The half-rounds were replaced with a much more substantial section of teak.

From the factory the cabin top is completely unobstructed, all sail controls terminating at the mast. The large companionway slide is without a hood, and without a fabric or hard dodger, the cabin top would expose a gapping hole with the slide in the open position. Beware any sailor flaking the mainsail onto the boom!

Lifelines, single or doubles depending on what was ordered at the factory, do not have a specific gate. Most have gate hardware between the last stanchion back to the pushpit, an area that covers the entire cockpit. Very handy for access to and from the dock or dinghy, but the remaining lifelines then go slack all the way to the bow as there is no fore and aft support for that last stanchion.

The Cockpit

The cockpit is relatively small for a 30-ft. sailboat. However, from a comfortably sloped cabin bulkhead to transom is still 6-ft. 6-in. long in the T-shaped configuration. An angled coaming reaching mid-back provides comfortable seating with the opposing seat within easy foot reach when heeled under sail. At anchor two can stretch out on the bench seats with additional room across the lazarette locker. An interesting addition is a small lip on the trailing edge of the bench seat matched by a lip on the leading edge of the lazarette seat. The factory provides a heavy-duty plexiglass insert that fits this space, creating a full-length sleeping bench. Custom fabricated cockpit cushions match these spaces. Sleeping under the stars is a decedent luxury on a warm night.

The author takes a turn at the wood-covered DIY destroyer wheel, featured in earlier Practical Sailor coverage. Bert’s knack as a do-it-yourselfer is amply demonstrated by Natasha’s elegant name plate, beverage holder and folding cockpit table. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

The rudder post is located under the leading edge of the stern locker hatch and accessible from the cockpit. I suspect that the original design called for tiller steering. Public demand probably forcing wheel steering on the manufacturer. The wheel pedestal seriously infringes on usable space in the confined cockpit. As in all things from Islander Yachts, in later models purchasers could select a choice pedestal options. From a simple pedestal with just a compass and engine controls to one with a guard, instrument pod and cockpit table, all was available. To open up space aboard Natasha, the oversized wheel is removed and lashed to the stays when not in use. This dramatically opens up the cockpit for relaxing and entertaining.

The port side locker is cavernous and connected to the equally cavernous lazarette locker below deck. A reasonable size sailor can easily climb between the two. Interestingly, the port side locker is divided in two, the aft end being the deep locker, the forward end being shallow and part of the galley with access to the top of the icebox. A thirsty sailor would not have to go below to reach for a cold beverage. Just open the hatch, lift the two-part icebox lid and there it is!

The lazarette locker is simply an open space with the steering quadrant intruding on the forward edge, something to keep in mind when throwing fenders and other sailing gear into the space. Also of note is that both lockers are open to the engine compartment located just forward of the 17-gal (77-liter) aluminum fuel tank directly below the cockpit sole. I suspect many owners have long since divided this space to keep gear from migrating forward into harms way.

On Natasha the engine compartment has been isolated and bins have been added across the stern to simplify storage of sailing paraphernalia. There is a plywood partition for the quarter berth on the starboard side of the fuel tank that terminates short of the lazarette locker. A low partial bulkhead separates the fuel tank area from the engine compartment.

The Rig

The Islander Bahama 30 came with a single-spreader aluminum deck-stepped mast. The aluminum aerodynamic spreaders are set onto welded sockets, held in place with clevis pins. Stainless steel tangs are through bolted to the mast, simple clevis pins hold the standing rigging in place. The majority of masts were set on a simple deck socket, supported below by the forward bulkhead and compression post. A rare few were set on a tabernacle. This device, along with the associated additions to the standing rigging, would allow an owner to lower the mast forward using the boom as a fulcrum. This is common practice on dinghies and small keelboats, but would be a frightening prospect on a mast weighing over 150 lb! Our Islander had a crushed pulpit at time of purchase, probably as a result of an out-of-control mast being lowered.

Running rigging for the main and genoa terminate at small winches on either side of the mast, all halyards are external. No provisions for spinnaker gear in the early models. The main topping lift originates at the mast head down to the boom end and a cleat mid boom. Again, a very simple arrangement. Later models could be ordered with variations on these arrangements, but any Bahama with halyards lead aft from the mast would be owner installed.

Aboard Natasha all halyards were moved internal into the mast and lead aft through turning blocks at the base, to deck organizers and aft to clutches at the trailing edge of the cabin trunk, accessible from the cockpit. The winches on the mast were moved to the cabin top as well. All pain sails can be controlled without having to leave the safety of the cockpit, a rule laid down by the Admiral.

Yes children, that’s a symmetrical spinnaker flown with the help of a gadget called a spinnaker pole. Newer boats are all about the Code Zero, making “jibing the pole” a lost art. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Boom

The boom is similarly of simple construction. For mainsail control, factory options were a traveller bridge forward of the companionway with a three-gang block with cam cleat on a car leading to three single blocks simply bolted onto the underside of the boom. I suspect that in many cases these bolts were pulled out of the boom in a violent tack or gibe. Boom bails soon followed. The other factory option was a block arrangement at the end of the boom with control lines to a traveller/track fastened to a nicely molded edge at the aft edge of the cockpit. All Bahamas had this molded edge. This would be the perfect arrangement in a tiller set-up, at hand for the sitting helms person. Not so good for whoever was standing at the wheel in an accidental gibe. The block at the end of the boom could do serious damage to an unprotected head.

Traveller

In either case, forward of the companionway or at the transom, the traveller car had no provision for line assisted movement. The mainsheet would have to be released, the car moved manually, and then the main sheet tightened. Remember, this was an era of cost control production. Aboard Natasha the boom-end arrangement was removed, a traveller bridge constructed with car and end controls leading into the cockpit. A recent addition has been the Garhauer solid vang, eliminating the annoying topping lift.

Interior

Entering the cabin of the Bahama 30 is a pleasure. The companionway is wide with no high bridge to climb over and only three steps (not a ladder) to the cabin sole. The first step is a wide platform that forms part of the top of the engine compartment. Then a further two wide steps that a sailor can easily climb with hands full. There are convenient handholds for those times that the boat is underway or heeled over.

Islander packed a lot of big-boat features into their Bahama 30. You get a legitimate, and desirable, U-shaped galley, a homey settee for socializing, and a spacious quarterberth, which has pampered multiple generations of Vermeers. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Unlike the similar sized and comparable Catalina or Hunter 30s, entry into the main cabin is unobstructed all the way to the forward bulkhead, no galley counter in the way on the centerline. The U-shaped galley is to port, the nav station to starboard, both out of the way. Woodwork on earlier models was finished with light mahogany, varnished to a glow. Later models switched to oiled teak. Both contrasted very nicely with the white headliner in the bright cabin, the large, fixed windows letting in copious amounts of light. Keeping in mind that Islanders were not overly expensive boats, even for the time, the woodwork is acceptable in quality and finish.

Galley

The U-shaped galley is immediately to port of the companionway with a good-sized countertop leading to a large icebox/refrigerator. This countertop is shared under the cockpit hatch with two lids extending all the way back to the locker. Then comes a two-burner stove/oven, more counter space and then a sink close to the centre line at the end of the “U”. A very workable galley. The end of the “U” has space for a flip-up cutting board, extending counterspace further. There is open storage behind the stove, two drawers beside the icebox/refrigerator and a cupboard for pots and pans under the drawers.

Different model years offered different amenities. Open storage became cabinets and the hand pump for water at the sink became a hot and cold pressure system. The poorly insulated icebox was replaced with factory refrigeration. I am unaware of the two-burner kerosene stove/oven ever being replaced with a propane system at the factory. I’m sure that many owners have made that change, it was one of the first upgrades on Natasha.

Pacific Northwesterners will want to follow Bert’s lead and install a proper, season-extending cabin heater. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Quarterberth

Immediately to starboard of the companionway is the double wide, seven-plus foot long quarterberth. Completely open to the main cabin, there is no expectation of privacy for quests. Our teenage daughter grew up in this berth during our sailing summers, and years later, our grand daughter has done the same. It also serves as a handy storage compartment for the cockpit cushions.

Under the quarterberth is the battery compartment with room for at least three group 27 batteries, possibly four. There is a second compartment further aft, accessible under the mattress. The degree of difficulty in access usually relegates this to spare non-emergency parts.

Forward of the quarterberth is a small hanging locker with a square countertop that could be considered a navigation station, but is far too small for any charts. This area has the electrical panel, but no room for any navigational or electronic equipment. As is typical of boats of this era, this electrical panel was very basic. Islander did, however, use proper marine-grade wire that has stood the test of time. I suspect that most owners have long since upgraded their electrical panels to meet modern electrical demands. On Natasha a solid brass panel with appropriately labelled breakers and digital battery monitor replaced the original panel.

Main Cabin

The main cabin is comprised of two opposing settees. The starboard settee is 6-ft. 6-in. long with properly tilted seat backs for a comfortable seating position. There is excellent storage underneath and behind the seat backs. There is also open storage on a shelf above and behind the back rest. In later models this storage was tucked behind teak cabinetry. The port side settee appears shorter due to the galley intruding on its length. However, the settee extends under the galley counter and is actually the same length. It also has storage behind the seat back and open storage on a shelf above. Aboard Natasha the open storage has been hidden behind tinted plexiglass slides set in mahogany trim, a very tidy appearance.

Mold alert. The entire inside of the Bahama 30, like all other Islanders of the era, is finished with off-white vinyl fabric over open cell foam glued to bare fiberglass. This was a very common, and inexpensive, practice in production boats in the 70s and 80s. The fabric covered the roughly finished hull as well as the overhead. Zippers were included in strategic locations to access deck hardware. Those zippers have long since frozen in place. In many cases the vinyl has separated from the open cell foam, the foam having rotted into a black moldy mess after years of exposure to moisture. Solutions are many and sailors are a creative lot, ripping out the viny for imaginative replacements.

A large cabin table constructed of heavy MDF with arborite surfaces drops down from the bulkhead onto a support leg and, once folded open into place, will seat four comfortably. However, it does block access forward once deployed. This table, when stored, occupies the entire bulkhead. Aboard Natasha, a foam-cored table was constructed on a mahogany frame and finished with mahogany door skins. Varnished to match the interior woodwork of the cabin, it is light enough to store in the quarter berth when not in use. The now-vacant bulkhead is home to a Dickinson cabin heater and drinking glass cabinet. The table bolts to the cabinet when in use. The visible flame is cozy on cool evenings and much more appealing to the eye.

Mast compression. The solid door to the head and forward cabin is off set to starboard to allow for the wood compression post supporting the mast amidships. One area of concern with the Bahama 30 is “sag” caused by over 40 years of mast compression. The post sits on the cabin sole, which is supported by a plywood sub frame glassed into the hull, not the keel. Years of exposure to a wet keel sump will eventually cause delamination of this support and thus a sagging of the subframe and sole. Keeping the sump dry is important. On Natasha we’ve been fortunate in that the subframe appears in good condition. However, there are still signs of very minor sag in the set-up, the evidence is the door frame not aligning as it should. This has not caused any problems in the nearly 50-year-old boat other than appearance.

Outside of the large companionway hatch, there is no additional ventilation in the main cabin. However, the large overhead hatch in the head flows a substantial amount of air through the main cabin in all but foulest of weather.

Early models emerged from the factory with half-inch painted plywood cabin soles with your choice of carpet color. Later years saw the introduction of the standard teak and holly sole.

Head Compartment

With vanity and sink to starboard and head with shower to port, the entire full-width head compartment becomes the shower stall with proper curtains. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

The head compartment straddles the boat, toilet with a large open locker to port and small vanity to starboard. Later models incorporated a shower sump and track for a shower curtain. No such accommodations in the early models. The opening hatch is directly overhead for ventilation. Light is provided by two fixed ports (early models) or two opening ports (later models). With the head not confined to a small, fixed compartment as in similar sized boats of that era, there is plenty of room to prevent claustrophobia. Aboard Natasha the entire head becomes a shower compartment with appropriately sized curtain and sump. This is very convenient when a shower on deck is not appropriate.

V-Berth

Forward of the head is the roomy V-berth, just over six feet in length and king size at the shoulders. Two small half-height hanging lockers with top counters provide storage for clothing and a handy spot for nighttime paraphernalia. Unfortunately, there is no ventilation in this compartment. For earlier models the two portlights are fixed. Later models replaced the fixed ports with opening units. Natasha now has a reversable Nicro solar vent on the foredeck circulating air 24/7.

All models came with a wood/fabric accordion style sliding door between the V-berth and the head. If there was an expectation of privacy, this door is not likely to provide it. Most were discarded by owners as an annoyance.

Under the V-berth are two large storage compartments. The aft compartment holds a 15 gallon (56 liter) holding tank, the forward compartment is empty. Both are cumbersome to accessed through small hatches under the split foam mattress. On Natasha the holding tank has been rotated 90  degrees and moved forward through the non-structural dividing bulkhead. Doors have been installed in the face of the aft compartment allowing easy access to the now voluminous rear compartment. The trailing edge of the V-berth has been reinforced to support the weight of persons climbing into the berth.

Mechanical

Production boats in the 30 ft. range during the heyday of fiberglass construction were simplicity itself. Early Islanders were no exception. For the early Bahama model line, the electrical system provided the basic navigation lights, some interior lighting and the necessities to charge a battery from the ubiquitous Atomic 4 gasoline engine. A five or six switch electrical panel allowed for the addition of an aftermarket VHF marine radio. Later models had expanded electrical panels.

Water Systems

Plumbing included a 25 gallon (95 liter) plastic water tank underneath the port settee. In early models the filler for this tank was under the seat cushion. The dock hose had to be dragged into the cabin for a fill up. Later models had a deck filler. The single bowl galley sink had a hand pump for fresh water, as did the vanity sink in the head. Later models introduced hot and cold pressure water systems.

A raw water toilet and holding tank completed the plumbing system.

Engine Replacement Costs

With the last Bahama coming off the production line in 1985, the Atomic 4s and Volvos are probably at or well beyond their expected lifespan. This will be a major deciding factor in any decision to purchase, or even retain, a 30-ft. sailboat whose value may be less than the cost of a rebuild or replacement of the powerplant. Although rebuilding an Atomic 4 or Volvo MD7A isn’t nearly as expensive as a replacement with a modern diesel, the owner then retains the limitations of the technology of that era and, with the Atomic 4, the vulnerability of a gasoline engine.

I sailed with an Atomic 4 for eight years on our first Bahama 30 without any real difficulty other than a range limitation. At a gallon per hour there was a practical limit of about 75 nm before sloshing fuel would cause the engine to stall. The Volvo, and subsequent Beta, are far more stringent with fuel.

MARKET SCAN

The terminals for the side shrouds are not set all the way inboard, but the sheeting angles for the lapping genoa are plenty tight. We like the way the mainsheet is routed forward to the gooseneck, then aft to the cockpit, making a cleaner arrangement and keeping the traveler out of the cockpit. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)


Under Power

Whether under way by means of the Atomic 4 or the Volvo, the Bahama 30 could easily reach its hull speed of 6.2 knots on the modest 24-ft. waterline—the sharply raked bow and abrupt stern don’t help in that regard. The four-cylinder Atomic 4 is significantly more responsive and smoother running than the two-cylinder Volvo with it’s epic flywheel. With the prop in close proximity to the spade rudder, and independent throttle and gearshift controls at the helm, maneuvering in tight spaces is easily accomplished. A competent skipper is able to turn completely within a boat length with judicious use of prop walk and wash, pivoting on the keel.

Engine noise in the cockpit from either engine is within reason, the Atomic 4 is noticeably quieter. Both can be muffled further by closing off the back of the engine compartment and adding sound insulation. Aboard Natasha the Volvo was replaced with a Beta 20 on a sail drive unit and the engine compartment sound insulated. It makes a world of difference when forced to power over a flat sea.

Under Sail

Natasha’s fully battened mainsail was a sensible upgrade, promoting both better sail shape and handier sail handling. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

As with most manufacturers at the time, sails were optional from the factory. The reasoning was that the builder didn’t know where the purchaser would be sailing the boat. A local sailmaker would have a better understanding of sail requirements for local conditions. San Diego Bay has radically different conditions than San Francisco Bay and sails would be cut differently. It also kept the price at the factory down for advertising purposes. In later years the factory offered every option available in the sailing world from anchors to sails, the longer the sales brochure, the better.

Sails Make All the Difference

Over the 30 plus years I’ve sailed the Bahama 30 I started with used sails and eventually worked my way to new, locally crafted sails. True racers aside, any cruising sailor who has migrated to fresh Dacron will wonder why time had been wasted on the old sails. The difference in any boat is wonderful. I was quite satisfied with our first Bahama’s performance under old sails and blamed my poor club finishes on my own lack of experience and skill. A Bahama 30 of the same vintage had finished as “Boat of the Year” in a local regional series. The boat must be fast! And it is—with the right sails.

Upwind

The Bahama 30 is not quite as stiff as the beamier Catalina 30, but not as tender as the lighter Ranger 29 of the same vintage. The toe rail can go in the water with too much sail up, as with any boat, and she sails better on her feet. Heeled about 15 degrees under the 130% genoa with 15 knots over the deck is comfortably fast. Wind speed above that and the main is reefed. Above 20 knots the main is taken down. Gentlemen don’t go to windward with over 25 knots crossing the deck! The boat can do it, but often the skipper doesn’t want to.

Downwind

Off the wind I’ve sailed comfortably, although excitedly, in 40 knots of wind with a 90% jib with no main, surfing down some of the larger ocean waves with the boat completely under control. Always hopeful that the bow would rise to the next wave, and it always did, reaching speeds of 12 knots surfing down some of the larger swells, it was quite the ride! Below in those conditions there were no creaks or groans from the hull—she’s a stoutly built boat. In calmer conditions, and under a full spinnaker, the Bahama 30 is very predictable with plenty of control, the rudder giving fair notice when a broach is approaching.

With a fin keel and spade rudder, the Bahama is not a “hands-off” sailor. She is very sensitive to rudder input, sails to windward well, is easy to tack and is spectacular on a reach. Perfect for coastal cruising and club racing, which is exactly what she was designed to do.

Conclusion

Flying her Canadian colors with pride, the author’s Islander Bahama 30 beats homeward amid the grandeur of the Pacific Northwest. She’s a “just right” Goldilocks boat that has been part of the Vermeer familiy for decades. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

If you’re looking for a “sail away” boat in the 30-ft. range that will need little effort, knowledge or money to become the family get-away, the Islander Bahama 30 may not be the boat for you. At 40 plus years or older, and without factory support, most need serious attention and upgrades to return to, or maintain, their glory. Professional skill is prohibitively expensive. For the sailor with a bit of mechanical skill and willing to learn, this may be a good choice. There may also be a gem out there that a knowledgeable owner has fastidiously maintained and upgraded, time and effort that will never be recouped in a sale price. That will be the boat to find.

As an affordable sailboat from the heyday of fiberglass production, the Islander Bahama 30 is worth a serious second look. Unlike the ubiquitous Catalina and Hunter 30s of the same vintage, Islanders have not really maintained their value. A slippery, stable hull with a bright, comfortable interior, this is a boat that can satisfy both the sailor and the first mate. As an avid sailor who has been at the helm of one for over 30 years, I would point anyone looking at vintage, 30-foot sailboats in the direction of an Islander Bahama 30.

As a coastal cruise (and occasional racer & ocean crosser), Bert Vermeer has sailed the coast of British Columbia for over 40 years. With his wife Carey & daughter Nicky (and eventually granddaughter Natasha) in tow, Bert has gained an appreciation for the fabulous cruising grounds of the Canadian west coast. Based on his experience as a hands-on boater, he established a marine based business after completing his police career. Bert stays busy during the winter months dabbling in You Tube sailing videos and writing tales of summer adventures, awaiting blue skies and warm winds.

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    • Hi Stuart. Yeah, that was in the interest of brevity for the article. First the main is flattened with the cunningham, then a reef goes in at about 15knots over the deck (slab reefing from the cockpit), then the fully batten main gets depowered with a bit of feathering without damage, then it comes down at over 20knots. This is all going to windward. With a foam luff in the genoa I can also roll a few turns on the furler as well, flattening the genoa. I’ve gone to windward in 25, gusting close to 30, but not with the wife on board. It’s not comfortable, but the boat can do it, depending on the sea state of course. Off the wind 20+ knots is not a problem. Off the west coast of the Vancouver Island there were many passages of 30+ knots down wind, one of 40+ knots which can be seen on my Island circumnavigation video on You Tube. Sailing Natasha, 1991, episode 3

  1. Great article. I have had my 1980 IB 30 berthed in San Diego Bay since 1997. We won every race we were in, but then I had a very good helm woman and did a decent job of trimming. I did move the pennant from the top of the jib to the bottom, giving me better visibility forward.
    I could also outpoint the Mark II.
    Rich Geary

  2. Thanks for the comment Rich! San Diego is where “Natasha” originated. The previous owner harbour-hopped her up the coast to Victoria, had such a bad voyage that he decided to sell. She was called “Folly” at the time. In pretty rough shape, certainly not what I consider ready for sea. Lots of work (and boat dollars) later and I’ll be headed back out to the west side of Vancouver Island again this spring, ready for open ocean water. We just finished an event we call the “Smelly Boys Weekend”, a fun gathering of sailboats where we have a “Maximum Efficiency Sail” (we don’t race) day on the Saturday. No ratings, no rules, just fun. We came in first against some 40 footers in perfect wind conditions. A great boat to short-hand. Check out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAQBNJ37Ljo&t=55s. Unfortunately, this platform does not allow links, copy & paste.